Consumer Trends Leading to New Ingredient Launches

GCI: What is the continued potential and impact of ingredient trends in Asia and Europe for and on beauty product development and consumers?

Sharon Labs: [With consumers questioning many existing preservative], there are less and less options to work with. This is not a regulatory matter but a marketing one, and increasingly unsafe products are being released to the market [not do to the preservatives questioned by consumers and special interests but the lack of effective replacements/alternatives].

For example, a multinational company had to recall a mouthwash for microbial contamination recently, and the death of a two-year old Texan boy from a rare infection was blamed on contaminated alcohol wipes manufactured in the U.S. Some brand owners are taking a big risk based on marketing trends without scientific basis.

So, in addition to “natural,” other formulation trends are influencing preservation systems. Some include ingredients, which are not listed as preservatives with preservative qualities—such as fragrances or essential oils.

GCI: Have these trends led to any new products being produced by your company and will they be on display at In-cosmetics Asia 2011?

Sharon Labs: We are constantly developing innovative solutions for the preservation of cosmetics according to market requirements. All our blends containing organic acids, short chained parabens and other ingredients will be on display. At the moment, we are working on a series of natural, paraben and formaldehyde free preservatives. Scientific studies supporting their efficiency and safety will cover this new line of preservatives.

Alban Muller: We developed several ranges of eco-designed plant extracts: 100% natural, preservative-free and obtained exclusively with only renewable solvents and unique, eco-friendly technologies. We also designed natural alternatives to synthetic products commonly used in cosmetics, such as our new formulation ingredient Lipolami, a natural alternative to silicones for silky and smooth textures, and Amiox, a natural alternative to synthetic antioxidants (BHA et BHT) to protect formulas.

As for high-tech ingredients, we have recently launched efficacy-tested Cytokalmine, a polyphenols synergy that aims to reduce the secretion of inflammatory cytokines and the overproduction of free radicals to provide skin with soothing effect and reinforce skin’s resistance against the external aggressions and ageing.

Finally, we offer to our customers the possibility to develop their own personalized range of natural cosmetic products with an accelerated formulation service. They just have to customize already-developed and natural offerings according to their claims.

Naturex: We have developed two products that fit perfectly with current trends, which will be on display at In-cosmetics Asia 2011. Seveov is a maca extract that stimulates hair growth by promoting keratinocyte mitosis and protecting the hair bulb. It is very effective in anti-hair loss preparations because it helps to prevent alopecia and limit the effects of external aggressors such as pollution or tobacco.

Dragon’s Blood is an innovative ingredient that contributes to a complete reparation and regeneration of the tissues, for skin rejuvenation. Sustainably harvested, our Dragon’s Blood is obtained by cutting the bark of the tree (Croton lechleri) in a diagonal manner and bleeding the red latex. This method is employed by the locals to help preserve the trees. Harvested by local growers using traditional practices, the Dragon’s Blood is a good example of sustainable sourcing.

Dow Corning: To meet challenges and trends, Dow Corning has developed specialty silicones—including fluids, elastomers, blends, emulsions, resins and waxes—that offer a range of formulating options and align to the economies of global markets. Within that framework, we need to make certain we guide our customers in selecting the right silicone-based solutions for their applications. Many specialty silicones are multifunctional, providing combinations of conditioning, shine, improved combing, moisturizing, color and heat protection, enhanced strength or volume. Given their multifunctional properties, silicones may allow formulators to use one ingredient where they might otherwise require several to achieve the desired effects. The result is easier—and potentially more economical—product development.