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FIT’s Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing Programs Pay It Forward
By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: June 24, 2014, from the July 2014 issue of GCI Magazine.
A unique aspect of the beauty industry is its desire to pay it forward. Mentoring, young executive support, professional guidance and philanthropy continue to be hallmarks contributing to its strength, and while corporate and organizational involvement are important, a pivotal part of the continuum may be found in academia—notably in the courses offered by the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), and particularly in its cosmetics and fragrance marketing programs.
FIT, founded in 1944, is part of the State University of New York. It is located in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood, offering unique access and opportunities for its student body. And supported by a stellar group of individuals with first-hand knowledge of the industry, FIT’s programs enable professional partnering and high-quality field experience.
A concept fostered by some of the beauty industry’s pioneers and guided by a staff of experts under the aegis of FIT president Dr. Joyce Brown, the original cosmetics and fragrance marketing program has seen several iterations since its inception.
Recognizing the beauty industry’s need for innovative thinking, FIT established the cosmetics, fragrance and toiletries associate degree program in 1978 with a chair endowed by Revlon, Inc. This position was initially held by the late Hazel Bishop, a chemist and pioneer of modern-day cosmetics, who founded her eponymous company and invented the first long-lasting, “kiss proof” lipstick.
The cosmetics and fragrance marketing baccalaureate program, founded in 1988, followed, coordinated by Peg Smith, a longtime faculty member at FIT. Smith helped raise funds in support of the program and guided its curriculum.
FIT further expanded its capabilities in 1993 by opening the Annette Green Fragrance Foundation Studio, a fragrance development laboratory named in recognition of Green’s work on behalf of the program. The former president of The Fragrance Foundation, Green was a driving force in the genesis of the program.
During the February 2014 celebration of the 25th anniversary of the baccalaureate program, at which both Smith and Green were present, Smith noted that Green named the program’s advisory board the “action council,” which is how she saw its role, and added that Green’s fund-raising efforts ultimately enabled the creation of a student study abroad opportunity. This travel/study component took students to London, Paris and Milan where they’ve visited lavender fields, met perfumers and visited bottle manufacturers.
Green recalled that the program enabled students to enter an industry that had no formal structure in place for entrance, and noted it filled an important need for students inspired by the workings of this industry, giving them direction and guidance, and ultimately setting the stage for mentoring, which has become part of the philosophical bedrock of the beauty industry.
A Unique Curriculum
Collaborative and participatory, the cosmetics and fragrance marketing curriculum offers an opportunity to gain field experience, an area where industry partnerships and academia coalesce. Among its offerings, the Cosmetic Product Knowledge Lab facilitates students’ learning how cosmetics look, feel and smell. They also learn to compound products in the studio, how to evaluate marketed cosmetics and about fragrance raw materials, as well as how to evaluate both fine fragrances and those used in functional products.
The Business of Beauty program provides an historical overview of the techniques used to market beauty products, as well as an overview of the culture of the industry and the key entrepreneurs and the companies they built. Courses address the historical usage of cosmetics, fragrance and toiletries; the transition from household recipes to marketable retail products; and supplier, vendor, retailer, service and regulatory issues involved in the production, manufacturing and marketing of beauty products. Marketing principles addressing global and external factors, corporate capabilities, product need, planning, and product launches are also studied. And the course on European Cosmetic and Fragrance Industries enables students to develop a firsthand understanding of the cosmetics and fragrance marketing process from the European perspective.
Virginia Bonofiglio, associate chairperson of cosmetics and fragrance marketing, notes that the value of the program lies in its ability to bring students into the real world of cosmetics and fragrance. “The class that currently takes place abroad is a two-week study experience in which students travel to Paris and Milan. Paris is the beauty capital, and I think it’s important for students to see it firsthand. Milan is the color capital, the purveyors of color pigments for the world. Students visit major fragrance companies [and] manufacturers, and they get a good look at the European beauty retail market, as well as have an opportunity to understand the European consumer and how to create products for that consumer,” she says. “We have made the class academically challenging and the program affordable for students. As part of the State University, which creates affordable education for all New Yorkers, we are educating the newest crop of people to enter the beauty business, making sure they have the skill set and knowledge to be effective leaders.”
There also are workshops aimed to develop and implement strategies to create products and determine the need for new entries in the market, while others examine olfaction, the role of the sense of smell and the classification of fragrance families. Students examine the history and spiritual origins of fragrance, technical terminology, home fragrance delivery systems and fragrance types used for environmental fragrances. Global brand management, forecasting, inventory management, partnering and profitability are also studied.
According to Steven Frumkin, dean of FIT’s Jay and Patty Baker School of Business and Technology (of which the baccalaureate program in cosmetics and fragrance marketing is a part), “Our unique program offers extensive laboratory facilities. We vet the students and the program, and we are doubling our student body next year when the program will include 50, rather than 25, students. In addition, every faculty member is an industry professional with at least seven to 10 years of industry experience.” Frumkin also notes that industry professionals in the program have the drive, desire and wherewithal to explain the concepts and requirements that students will need to navigate and succeed in the industry.