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Pushing Boundaries: Claims & Substantiation in Skin Care

By: Leslie Benson
Posted: April 7, 2009, from the April 2009 issue of GCI Magazine.

Olay subjected its Professional Pro-X line to multistage clinical trials to substantiate claims that the products reduced the appearance of facial fine lines and wrinkles.

By 2012, U.S. cosmeceutical sales are expected to reach $21 billion, as reported by Packaged Facts in June 2008. And growth like this is not limited to the U.S.; European and Japanese markets have also embraced such cosmetics and their marketing claims—a demand Lakshmi Prakash, vice president of innovation and business development for the Sabinsa Corporation, says is “expected to increase 8.5% to more than $8 billion by 2010.” More specifically, the demand for antiaging products will grow at twice the rate of other cosmeceutical products, accounting for more than 60% of all such products by 2010. This demand has spurred advanced R&D methods and tests on both new and familiar cosmetic ingredients, leading to innovations in antiaging skin care.

Advancements in Antiaging Skin Care

Although elastin has previously been used in antiaging skin-firming products, BASF Beauty Care Solutions has discovered the functionality of three-dimensional facial architecture and the renewal of elastin functionality, which it is touting with its newly patented Lys’lastine active, according to Bethsabée Coutaz, marketing and communication manager at BASF. And P&G is putting similar ingredient advances on store shelves. It’s Olay brand’s Professional Pro-X, an antiaging skin care line developed by a panel of scientists and dermatologists called the Olay Professional Alliance for Skin Care Innovation, includes two ingredients, pal-KT and hexamidine, not found in any other Olay product. “Pal-KT is a proprietary palmitoyl-peptide that enhances the stratum corneum to increase hydration, along with other moisturizers like glycerin, helping to allow the natural production of collagen,” says Mary Johnson, principal scientist, P&G Beauty. “And hexamidine locks in moisture, thereby plumping and firming the skin.”

For its part, Lipo Chemicals is “borrowing compounds from the food industry and chemically synthesizing the products that already exist in human skin, but are diminished due to aging or stress,” according to Nava Dayan, head of R&D, skin care, Lipo Chemicals.

Natural actives are also impacting cosmeceutical advancements, according to Walter Smith, president of science and technology, Active Organics, LP. For example, the company supplies actizyme, an exfoliating enzyme cosmeceutical that has antiaging claims derived from M. meihie mushroom extracts. “Actimatrix stimulates the production of dermal matrix proteins involved in skin firmness and sagging,” says Smith.

“Using a novel, patent-pending plant cell culture technology—PhytoCellTec—we developed an active based on apple stem cells,” says Beata Hurst, marketing and sales manager, Mibelle Biochemistry. “For this product, dedifferentiated callus cells from a rare apple were cultivated. These apple stem cells are rich in epigenetic factors and metabolites, which assure the longevity of skin cells.”