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Launches at in-cosmetics 2013, New Research and Production, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Late April 2013

Cosmetics Europe (formerly COLIPA) is looking to introduce novel in-vitro assays for testing key sensitizers/allergens as a replacement for animal testing in cosmetics. Thus, the organization was a partner with Proteome Sciences in a major research initiative Sens-it-iv, an EU-funded research project dedicated to develop and optimise in-vitro test strategies that could reduce or replace animal testing for sensitization studies. Proteome Sciences used its proteomic biomarker platform for this analysis, and the organization has notified Proteome that its SensiDerm multiplex assays have been selected in the first priority set of tests.

BASF and Petronas Chemicals Group announced intentions to invest $500 million into an integrated aroma ingredients project at their existing joint venture site BASF Petronas Chemicals in Gebeng, Kuantan, Malaysia. With this investment, the partners will help meet the globally growing demands of customers in the flavor and fragrance industry, especially in Asia Pacific. At the heart of the complex will be a plant for citral and precursor plants. The partners will also invest in downstream production for aroma ingredients including a new world-scale plant for L-menthol and a plant for citronellol. Production will be developed in phases, with the first plants of the project operational in 2016, creating some 110 new employment opportunities.

DianaPlantSciences signed an agreement with Solabia that focuses on the production of a novel bilberry extract dedicated to the beauty industry.

Sabinsa was the recipient of Frost & Sullivan's 2013 North American Integrated Prebiotic Delivery Technology Innovation Award. The award is in acknowledgment of Sabinsa's Integrated Nutritional Composites (INC) technology, which allows the company to create "synbiotics," the combination of prebiotics and probiotics. This release profile is a bi-layer technology that delivers stable, active formulation of ingredients that otherwise may be incompatible or difficult to co-formulate.

Symrise opened its new research center in Holzminden, Germany. With the new building, the company is promoting the interdisciplinary research dialogue between its two divisions, scent and care and flavor and nutrition.

Amyris announced the selection of Laserson, S.A. as the new exclusive distributor of Amyris Squalane in the European market.

Solvay is building a large-scale alkoxylation facility in Singapore that is expected to start operations by 2015 and will serve the fast-growing Asian market in home and personal care, coatings, industrial, agrochemicals and oil and gas. Additionally, Solvay announced it will build a specialty surfactant plant at an industrial park in Genthin, Germany. The unit will develop and produce surfactant solutions for Solvay's home and personal care and industrial customers serving Central and Eastern Europe.

Barentz and NKC have entered a strategic partnership to strengthen their operations in Europe and in the U.S.

Brookfield is offering two hands-on courses designed to help users comprehend the functionality of their instruments and solve mysteries of fluid behavior while creating a successful and repeatable method. The courses are offered at Brookfield’s headquarters in Middleboro, Massachusetts, and in major cities across the U.S., with on-demand courses conducted at the customers’ facilities or at Brookfield’s headquarters. The courses include “Practical Course on Viscosity Measurements,” with discussion topics that include how to pick a spindle/speed combination as well as calibration and verification checks; and “Lab Day/Advanced Viscosity Test Methods,” focusing on the customer’s interests, formulations and processing problems.

Promega and BASF have developed an alternative method to animal studies that can reliably detect the allergenic potential of substances. Using a newly developed cell line, the reaction of skin cells to allergenic substances can now be demonstrated in a test tube. This new cell line has been extensively tested at BASF, and a standardized method has been developed to reliably assess the allergenic potential of a substance. Developing the method at the present time is particularly important because following the REACH regulation, several thousand substances have to be tested for their skin sensitizing action by 2018. Furthermore, since March 2013, animal studies on cosmetic ingredients for the European market have been prohibited.

Gelest announced the formation of a new regulatory affairs and quality assurance group. Under the co-leadership of Kevin King, executive vice president, operations, who oversees regulatory affairs; and Joel Zazyczny, executive vice president, silanes, silicones and metal-organics, who oversees quality assurance, the new group is responsible for ensuring that Gelest continues to fulfill all applicable regulatory and quality assurance requirements pertaining to the company’s chemical manufacturing facilities and processes. Based at Gelest headquarters in Morrisville, Pennsylvania, the regulatory affairs and quality assurance group includes Shelly L. Kearney, who joins Gelest as regulatory affairs manager; Maya Kappil, Gelest’s quality systems manager; and Stephine Tarpeh, who assumes a new position at Gelest as environmental and regulatory affairs associate.

People News

Bio-Botanica appointed Steve Marada to the position of vice president, brand manager, retail group.

Vantage Specialty Chemicals promoted Mike Lotito to North America sales director of Lipo Chemicals, the personal care unit of Vantage. The domestic sales team covering the personal care and pharmaceutical segments now report to Lotito, and he will continue to lead the pharmaceutical commercial efforts while the company analyzes next steps for transitioning day-to- day management responsibility.

Andreas Steiner is taking on a new role as regional president, fragrances and oral care in North America for Symrise. In his new position, Steiner will expand the division over the long term.

New Launches

At in-cosmetics 2013, Croda introduced a host of sensorial ingredients across the skin, sun and hair care categories, in addition to debuting new formulations for the Asian and Latin American markets. These include Solaveil ST-100, the first product to be launched under the family name Solaveil Sensation. Combining UV performance with enhanced aesthetics, this coated titanium dioxide dispersion enables the development of light and luxurious UV protection products. Croda also some additions to its NatraGem range of high performance solubilisers and emulsifiers. NatraGem EW is an emulsifier wax with excellent stabilization and thickening properties that is capable of creating formulations ranging from lotions to high viscosity creams that are non-whitening on the skin and have excellent sensory benefits. And NatraGem S150 is an effective and multifunctional solubilizer that is designed to combine lipophilic cosmetic actives with their carrier oils into clear formulations. And for the multifunctional category, Croda introduced ViscOptima SE, a liquid rheology modifier that can be used to emulsify and stabilize high levels of oils and silicones within a formulation. Moreover, it is an efficient thickener that can create viscous creams at low inclusion levels that leave a smooth, silky, silicone-like feel to the skin.

Beauty Creations, the cosmetic active ingredient business of BASF, is now offering Shadownyl, a potent brown seaweed extract to combat the formation of wrinkles and dark circles around the eyes for a fully refreshed and enlightened eye contour. Shadownyl is a water extract of Fucus vesiculosus, which utilizes a novel biological pathway an enzyme involved in the reduction of free heme content in the skin, a major cause of dark circle formation. The ingredient also has been shown to exhibit antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, helping to preserve the skin cells and possibly also contribute to counteract the dark circle formation process. BASF also displayed its range of consumer-driven concepts and high-performance ingredients for all kinds of personal care applications, and unveiled the second level of the Care Creations brand roll-out—launching the formulation concept “Cosmetics for real life,” which studies, explores and develops based on consumers’ daily needs—at in-cosmetics 2013. Luviset One was among the new products on display, an all-in-one solution for hair styling gels, creams and waxes that delivers strong styling performance, long-lasting curl retention and provides a smooth, crystal-clear gel base. BASF also showcased PVP (Polyvinyl-pyrrolidone) Luviskol K 30 Super, which offers improved color and shows better viscosity behavior in styling gels compared to standard quality. The company also launched the broad-spectrum UV filter Tinosorb A2B, which provides protection from UVB and UVAII wavelengths from 290 through to 340 nm. Beauty Creations introduced the plant-based Freshaxyl, a natural efficient anti-odor active for the growing deo market. It is a synergistic blend of moringa polypeptide extract and plant-based glyceryl laurate, which acts at two essential levels to help dramatically reduce bodily odors, and BASF also presented Chione HD, a new effect pigments respond perfectly to the “nude look” trend, which continues to drive demand for cosmetics that give the skin a natural but radiant complexion. Formulated into BB creams or skin care serums, Chione HD pearls achieve brightness and correct imperfections effectively.

Dow Corning introduced its Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid, a new benefits-rich water-in-oil silicone emulsifier, at in-cosmetics. Developed to give product developers flexibility and choice, this technology delivers advanced aesthetics and performance for liquid and cream foundation and sunscreen while maintaining the high stability needed to avoid ingredient separation. The Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid provides excellent oil phase flexibility that can enhance the formulation stability of emulsions, even when a wide variety of ingredients and different ratios of cosmetic oils are incorporated. Additionally, this new low-odor material enables the development of highly stable emulsions while keeping viscosity low and provides a light feel with low tackiness for improved sensory performance. It also helps pigment dispersion for optimal foundation coverage. Dow Corning also announced two new skin care programs for sun protection and skin brightening at in-cosmetics. The programs feature the company’s range of specialty silicone products and silicone-based formulations. As part of Dow Corning’s new sun protection program, the company announced that its sun protection specialty silicone products have been extensively and rigorously retested to address customer requirements for performance validation. Dow Corning also addressed hair care with two new programs for hair shine and hair repair. The company’s new Hair Shine program addresses two major macro trends: consumers’ desire to reverse the effects of aging and their preference for a healthy look and feel.

Crodarom, a French subsidiary of Croda, introduced a flower extract from Asia that contributes to an illuminated complexion. Crodarom Porcelain Flower has soothing, antioxidant and moisturizing benefits. The flower is grown in Asia, where it has been used in traditional Chinese medicine as an anti-inflammatory. Its leaves have been used on wounds and burns, and the whole plant has been used to treat skin irritation and insect bites. The ingredient is made from the flowers of Hoya lacunosa, which are grown on a farm specialized in the cultivation of hoyas, and the choice of the supplier and the certified origin enable the development of a responsible supply chain, ensuring the sustainability of the species and protect the biodiversity. In beauty products, the extract can be used in illuminating skin care or makeup with illuminating benefits such as BB creams.

Also at in-cosmetics 2013, Bayer MaterialScience introduced raw material solutions for effective yet gentle hair care and styling, based on its Baycusan line. These raw materials are used for manufacturing “leave-in” products. Conditioning products formulated with Baycusan C 1008 waterborne polyurethane dispersions give hair increased elastic and natural hold, repair split ends, protect hair against heat, and significantly enhance shine. It also offers anti-frizz properties, which last for up to 24 hours, A sister product, Baycusan C 1001 dispersion is designed for formulating highly effective conditioning products that give hair a natural shine and healthy appearance. With it, unruly hair is easier to comb and has a flexible feel. A comb or brush glides much more smoothly through the hair treated with these products than hair treated with conventional conditioners based on acrylate copolymers.

Evonik introduced Tego Carbomer 841 SER, a novel cross-linked polyacrylic acid copolymer designed to control the rheology of surfactant systems, especially for very mild formulations based on sulfate- and/or PEG-free surfactants. This copolymer provides synergistic thickening in combination with electrolytes NaCl. It can be used for various personal cleansing systems and it provides excellent clarity in shampoos or body washes.

Dow launched EcoSense 3000 Surfactant at in-cosmetics 2013, an addition to Dow’s alkyl polyglucosides portfolio that offers product developers a readily biodegradable surfactant for use in shampoos and body washes. The EcoSense family of products is based on coconut and palm oils, contains no added sulfates or preservatives, and offers excellent foaming and mildness in formulations.

Developed in line with Clariant’s new Secret Code of Beauty concept, the company featured four new ingredients at in-cosmetics 2032. Aristoflex Velvet adds a soft, velvety skin feel to skin care formulations. A finalist in this year’s Cosmetics & Toiletries Innovation Award, the new member of Clariant’s versatile Aristoflex polymer product line is an answer to the trend toward luxury, providing a true sensorial experience. It is easy to use and brings unique benefits to a wide range of applications. The Plantasens natural ingredient range, recently acquired from CRM International, includes plant-based actives, unique emulsifiers and a broad selection of emollients ranging from vegetable oils and natural butters to alternatives to silicones, petrolatum and lanolin. Most Plantasens products are also Ecocert approved. Perlogen creates the sparkle in beauty formulations, a cold processable, liquid pearlizing concentrate for rinse-off products that creates an intensive silky shine in shampoos, liquid hand soaps, nourishing conditioners and moisturizing washes. Its well-defined particle size helps achieve high brilliance of pearlescent performance and an excellent pearlizing effect at low concentrations. And Genagen SC blends are cold processable and offer excellent foam building. The two grades of easy to use blends are based on a unique and patented technology to upgrade a broad variety of formulations. They improve opacifier stability and shorten production time.

Micro Powders, Inc. introduced three new products. MicroSorb 944S is a micronized combination of high molecular weight polyethylene and calcium silicate designed to provide maximum oil absorption while delivering a smooth silky and luxurious feel to pressed and loose powders. MicroSpersion 684S-XF utilizes the combination of the extra fine particle size and spherical shape of its Microslip 684S, and MicroCare 710 is a finely micronized combination of polyethylene, carnauba wax and PTFE to promote the adhesion of cosmetic formulations to the skin.

AAK Personal Care extended its Lipex line of shea-based functional emollients with an eco-designed ester called Lipex SheaLight. The general-purpose emollient can be used in a wide range of cosmetics. In response to the global trend toward making skin care products lighter, particularly body lotions and facial care products, the new ester targets beauty brands that want to develop safe, stable formulations combining light, dry sensorial properties with a better sustainability profile. The ester can be used alone or in combination with other esters, vegetable oils, shea butters, silicone oils and synthetic emollients when formulating everyday skin care products.

At in-cosmetics 2013, AkzoNobel Global Personal Care showcased products and technologies that support the company’s commitment to sustainability. These included its BioStyle CGP, a fixative styling polymer that combines synthetic performance and sustainable technology in a single ingredient; the naturally derived Structure Style polymer, a non-GMO starch-based, film former and rheology modifier, the 100% natural Amaze XT styling polymer, a multifunctional fixative and thickening/suspending agent; the biodegradable ArmoCare VGH-70, a vegetable-based di-ester quaternary developed to meet the needs required of an exceptional hair conditioning active; Dry-Flo TS, a non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified tapioca starch used to enhance the aesthetics of skin care products; and naturally derived Structure Cel polymers, a family of cellulose derivatives that can be used in a variety of personal care systems and products.

Mibelle Biochemistry released PhytoCellTec Symphytum at in-cosmetics. The ingredient has been shown to boost the regenerative power of epidermal stem cells and their ability to build new tissue, and it can be used in skin care formulations to recharge the youthfulness of skin stem cells, boost cell turnover to both fortify and plump skin, and reveal fresher, smoother skin. PhytoCellTec Symphytum is based on stem cells from comfrey, which is an old medicinal plant known for its healing properties.

Another launch at in-cosmetics 2013, Silab debuted CellDetox, a purified α-glucan active ingredient, obtained by biotechnology process, that detoxifies cells by removing altered cell components and guarantees cell and tissue longevity and blocks the accumulation of lipofuscin aggregates, a true marker of aging. Helping to smooth skin, renew radiance and even tone, CellDetox is recommended for regenerating, detoxifying and anti-aging skin care products. Silab also launched ApolluSkin at in-cosmetics. The ingredient is a protective antipollution active principle derived from dandelion, a plant known for its detoxifying properties. By reducing the activation of the aryl-hydrocarbon receptor, which propagates the damaging effects of pollution, fructan-rich ApolluSkin limits the inflammation and oxidative stress responsible for skin aging, improving the skin’s complexion. It is recommended for daily skin care products. Also at in-cosmetics, Silab released an ingredient designed to protect sensitive scalps from irritation induced by outside aggressors. Capicalm contains purified fumitory glycans that protect a sensitive scalp from the environmental aggressors, hair dyes and hair treatments that can lead to chronic irritation.

Merck presented new effect pigments and formulation ideas at in-cosmetics. Its Colorona SynBerry Pink is the highlight of the new pigments based on synthetic mica. This color-intensive, fuchsia-red pearl-luster pigment with its clear, brilliant masstone can be incorporated into all cosmetic formulations and, in particular, it adds an elegant finishing touch to decorative cosmetics for the eyes and lips. Also, Ronastar Diamond Black was presented at in-cosmetics, showcasing the deep, virtually black color and a unique luster that can be used in all cosmetic products, in particular in decorative cosmetics such as mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow and nail polish. And Ronastar Copper Jewel is a vibrant, copper-colored effect pigment that is characterized by brilliant luster and good coverage. The substrate is based on glass flakes and can be used in all cosmetic formulations. Additionally, as active ingredients that prevent acne or neutralize free radicals on the skin are increasingly in demand, Merck released RonaCare AP to address this. In a current study, it proved to be an effective agent for acne prevention while protecting against skin damage caused by a high individual level of radicals.

Symrise presented natural and sustainable actives for skin and hair from microalgae at the 2013 in-cosmetics. For new launches, in collaboration with Cutech, Symrise identified marine water microalgae as an excellent source for new cosmetic actives and introduced SymHair Force 1631 to help fight hair loss and improve hair density, and SymBronze 1659, a natural biological tanner derived from microalgae. Working from the inside, it provides a natural, sunless tan, accelerates the natural tanning process under sun exposure and prolongs the tan.

Also a the 2013 in-cosmetics, Wacker debuted BelSil Reg 1100, a silicone resin elastomer gel that produces long-lasting effects in beauty products and leaves the skin feeling pleasant and silky soft, and BelSil ADM 6102 E, a silicone emulsion and highly effective hair conditioning agent that allows product developers to create products that make hair soft and pleasantly supple. BelSil Reg 1100 works to make cosmetic formulations more water- and transfer-resistant, thus providing long-wear benefits. The product helps to make lipsticks more kiss-proof, to prevent makeup from rubbing off on clothing, and to reduce the negative impact that water has on the protective effects of sunscreens. It also makes moisturizers and night creams particularly rich, allowing their nourishing effects and excellent skin-feel properties to last a long time. Additionally, BelSil ADM 6102 E adheres well to the surface of the hair, does not crosslink and makes hair easy to comb while providing excellent softness. The slightly acidic, milky white silicone emulsion is suitable for conditioning shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, hair treatments, masks, two-phase pump sprays and as a conditioning additive in hair dyes.

The first outcome of a partnership between Seppic and Coatex (a subsidiary of Arkema), Eliclear 4U made its debut at the 2012 in-cosmetics. The rheology modifier helps ensure there is no compromise on clarity for textured beauty formulations containing suspended particles, a marketing advantage to convince consumers with transparent packaging. Eliclear 4U provides to both traditional and sulfate-free surfactant based systems for shampoos and body washes, and the easy-to-use liquid thickens and suspends formulations from pH 5.

Univar released new anti-aging formulations that use natural and moisture-enhancing ingredients to prevent damage and hide signs of aging in hair and skin. The prototype solutions include organic argan oil to help repair free radical damage, add shine and increase hair strength with Dow Corning DC 2-2078, Cremer Care Argan Oil and Dow Corning 5200 formulation aid; an anti-aging serum the restores and rejuvenates skin using the juice from Bulbine frutescens, a plant shown to reduce signs of blemishes, scars, eczema, inflammation and other skin ailments using Purac BF P/41, CremerTimola and KelcoGel CG LA; and anti-aging primer with a new ingredient to calm skin and reduce loss of collagen using Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend and AquaMax HM; a rejuvenating eye cream with high vitamin A, D, E and F content to providesa natural moisturizer that stimulates cell regeneration while helping prevent dry skin and wrinkles using AquaMax LM, Dow Corning EL 8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend and Cremer Care Baobab Oil; and a wrinkle-masking lotion that uses glycerin to helps create a light lotion that smoothes, fills, and masks skin imperfections giving the appearance of fewer wrinkles and more youthful skin with Dow corning 9509, Oxiteno Alkont BE 3165 VEG and Univar Glycerin.

Ashland Care Specialties announced Actopontine biofunctional, a bio-engineered peptide designed to support skin’s own production of a key protein called dermatopontin. Dermatopontin is believed to be one of the most important proteins necessary to rebuild the foundation of skin. The Actopontine biofunctional, which launched at in-cosmetics, is conceived as a potential pathway to help skin restore its foundational proteins that diminish with age and ultimately cause skin to sag and lose its critical collagen integrity. It can be used in a range of cosmetic formulations, including anti-aging skin care products, formulations to advance skin firmness and elasticity, facial day and night creams and other body care formulations. Also at in-cosmetics, Ashland introduced APShield 100 polymer, a polymer technology demonstrated to advance the performance attributes of antiperspirant products. This ingredient allows product developers to create high-performing antiperspirants with significantly less aluminum salt, while maintaining the efficacy of products labeled as “enhanced duration.” APShield 100 is optimized for use in anhydrous antiperspirant stick and roll-on formulations. And Ashland also debuted Conditioneze 22 and Conditioneze 37 cationic solutions at in-cosmetics 2013. These two polyquaternium polymers are designed to impart deep conditioning, luster and soft-silky feeling properties to hair. Conditioneze 22 is recommended for use in colorant products, ethnic hair care and shampoos and conditioners formulated for damaged and treated hair, while Conditioneze 37 imparts excellent conditioning benefits in conditioners and hair masques and acts as a rheology modifier, enabling an enhanced rheology profile.

Sonneborn Refined Products presented its SonneNatural 200 series, its latest collection of natural emollients, during in-cosmetics. The line of 100% vegetable-based emollients is an extension of the existing SonneNatural brand and includes three novel offerings—SonneNatural H-203, S-205 and J-207 offer a range of slip, gloss and cushion to fit any formulation requirement, while providing exceptional TEWL performance. Each product adds substantive feel and body to formulations without the negative attributes associated with fillers, such as starch and clay.

Bionov introduced its new nutricosmetic innovation available for instant drink application at Vitafoods Europe 2013. CelluLight S is a 100% natural active ingredient with demonstrated efficacy against cellulite, has a specific coating newly develop to assure total dispersion in cold beverages. The ingredient is a natural melon juice concentrate rich in superoxide dismutase (SOD), with both mechanistic and clinical studies on anti-cellulite action.

Air Products launched its new Dermohydrine cellular active at in-cosmetics, offering product developers with an effective, high-performing moisturizing solution that can meet the natural ingredient demands of consumers. Dermohydrine cellular active is the newest addition to Air Products’ Rovi cosmetic active ingredient portfolio. These ingredients utilize advanced and multifaced delivery technologies to address defined and consumer-desired performance attributes. Dermohydrine cellular active provides natural extracts to enhance the moisture retention levels of the skin.

And also at in-cosmetics 2013, Solvay debuted Jaguar LS, a conditioning guar polymer for modern shampoo products. The ingredient was created to offer the benefits expected by consumers and products from shampoos relying on less surfactants and chemicals while not compromising on performance. Jaguar LS boosts active delivery and is particularly suitable for transparent formulations. With its eco-friendly profile, it provides superior conditioning versus PQ-10s in cost-efficient shampoos, and being substantive to hair, it is also capable of enhancing sensorial hair feel.

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