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Beauty Ingredients with an Eco Edge

By: GCI Editors
Posted: May 31, 2013, from the June 2013 issue of GCI Magazine.

AAK Personal Care extended its Lipex line of shea-based functional emollients with an eco-designed ester called Lipex SheaLight, which can be used in a wide range of cosmetics. In response to the global trend toward making skin care products lighter, particularly body lotions and facial care products, the ester targets beauty brands that want to develop safe, stable formulations combining light, dry sensorial properties with a better sustainability profile.

Active Organics, Inc.’s ActiGuard S is designed around extracts of the ancient grain, Sorghum (Sorghum bicolor). Due to a proprietary extraction process, ActiGuard S performance ingredient is rich in bioactive phytochemicals and is ideal as a solution for sensitive, inflamed and overly reactive skin conditions.

Air Products improves moisture retention with the latest addition to its Rovi cosmetic active ingredient portfolio. Dermohydrine Cellular Active is a moisturizing solution that can meet the natural ingredient demands of today’s consumers. The active is comprised of natural extracts to enhance the moisture retention levels of the skin. The active can be formulated into skin care for the face, body and hands/feet.

AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry, Personal Care introduced Dry-Flo TS, a non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified tapioca starch that may be used to cost-effectively enhance the aesthetics of a broad variety of skin care products.

Alban Muller International released Amiderm ER, a plant-based ingredient developed to preserve the pH balance of the skin. Based on a witch hazel tannin, the ingredient’s mode of action makes it useful in all situations when skin is stressed by an increase in pH: particularly sensitive and moisture prone areas of the body, and is appropriate for products such as deodorant, baby care and intimate hygiene.
Alban Muller also debuted Amipreserve, a natural preservative that offers a safe anti-microbial solution to protect cosmetic products, and Amiperfect, which offers keratolytic, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory action to purify the skin and promote the elimination of dead cells, smooth blemishes and wrinkles, and encourage the regeneration of the epidermis.

Beauty Creations, the cosmetic active ingredient business of BASF, is now offering Shadownyl, a potent brown seaweed extract to combat the formation of wrinkles and dark circles around the eyes for a fully refreshed and enlightened eye contour.
Beauty Creations also introduced the plant-based Freshaxyl, a natural efficient anti-odor active for the growing deo market. It is a synergistic blend of moringa polypeptide extract and plant-based glyceryl laurate, which acts at two essential levels to help dramatically reduce bodily odors.

Beraca’s Beracare DPS (Dermal Protective Active System) is its first active ingredient to act in the dermal layer, contributing to skin protection and regeneration. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties protect the skin from damage caused by UVA rays, and help improving and maintaining skin’s elasticity.
The company also launched Patauá Oil. Sourced from the fruit of an Amazonian palm tree, Patauá Oil is a moisturizing agent with high oleic acid content (75%) and unique properties such as transparency and light, non-greasy feel. It can be used as a substitute for olive oil in skin care and hair care products.

Berkem introduced Polynektars, a range of plant-based cosmetic active ingredients based on polyphenols. Origa’light is rich in polyphenols from the hydroxycinnamic acid family. In addition to giving the extract antioxidative capability, allowing it to absorb free radicals to prevent the appearance of signs of aging, they allow it to lighten the complexion through its anti-tyrosinase features.
The company also launched Fresh’ka. Developed to brighten the skin, it is rich in polyphenols from the flavonoid family. The active brightens dull skin by toning micro-vessels in the skin and contributing to better cellular oxygenation; refining skin texture through an astringent effect that decreases pore diameter and tightens skin with tannins; and lightening the complexion gently using anti-tyrosinase properties.

Bio-Botanica introduced ZeaBasics, naturally derived plant extracts with Zemea propanediol manufactured via its biochelation cold extraction process. Zemea was developed by DuPont Tate & Lyle as a pure colorless glycol derived from a sustainable corn sugar process.

Botanic Innovations added Tomato Seed Oil to its product portfolio. It has a bright reddish orange color and is rich in carotenoid antioxidants—including lycopene, lutein and zeaxanthin. Tomato seed oil has special value as an ingredient in beauty products, including those for mature, aging skin; dry skin; irritable skin; brittle or damaged hair; acne and sun care. It has a light viscosity, high nutrient values, and superior skin absorption, along with good stability and shelf life.

Calumet Penreco debuted hybrid petrolatum blends that combine Snow White Petrolatum USP with natural macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, safflower oil or olive oil. Designed to offer a more natural alternative to petrolatum alone.

Campo Research’s Plantservative is a fully active broad spectrum preservative isolated from Lonicera Japonica and Lonicera Caprifolium. Created using a super critical extraction technology to produce the extract with little to no waste, no chemical residues and free of heavy metals, it is suitable for the antimicrobial protection of cosmetic and personal care applications.

Clariant launched Plantasens, a product range recently acquired from CRM International, that includes plant-based actives, unique emulsifiers and a broad selection of emollients ranging from vegetable oils and natural butters to alternatives to silicones, petrolatum and lanolin.
Clariant also introduced three lines of biopolymers that are vegetal-based. They include Vitipure, which repairs and protects skin, reduces wrinkles, boosts elasticity and firmness, and rebalances and hydrates skin; Velsan, which provides a natural, vegetal replacement for silicones in skin care, repairs and coats hair in hair care products, and creates a creamy foam; and Zenvivo, a vegetal chitosan that reduces odor in mouthwash and deodorants, boosts preservation in cosmetics, acts as a film-former in hairstyling, sun care and cosmetics, and provides conditioning in skin and hair care.

Croda added a natural emulsifying wax to its NatraGem range of high performance solubilizers and emulsifiers that is both electrolyte tolerant and compatible with high/low polarities. NatraGem EW demonstrates excellent stabilization and thickening properties, and is appropriate for formulations ranging from lotions to high viscosity creams. Its use does not result in a whitening effect on the skin, while it does provide sensory benefits. Also, it is compatible with a broad range of commonly used personal care actives. The wax is 100% naturally derived, biodegradable and approved natural by Ecocert. It is recommended for formulation in skin care, hair care, sun care, color cosmetics, baby care and natural creams and lotions.
Croda also introduced Keramimic 2.0, a biomimetic keratin developed using proteomics to offer targeted repair for damaged areas of hair, and KeraDyn HH—a conditioning agent designed to deliver healthy dynamics to damaged hair by enhancing fiber alignment and reducing friction between strands for a better movement.

Crodarom, a French subsidiary of the Croda Group, introduced a flower extract from Asia that contributes to an illuminated complexion. Crodarom Porcelain Flower has soothing, antioxidant and moisturizing benefits. The flower is grown in Asia, where it has been used in traditional Chinese medicine an anti-inflammatory, and the ingredient can be used in illuminating skin care or makeup with illuminating benefits such as BB creams.

Additionally, Crodarom launched Chufa Milk EC, designed to provide nutrients to protect skin and hair. It is obtained from the organically farmed tubers of Cyperus esculentus, commonly called chufa or tigernut. Consisting of sugars, amino acids, flavonoids, minerals and vitamins B, C and E, chufa provides moisturizing and antioxidant properties that may be used in both skin and hair care applications. Ecocert-certified, the ingredient is recommended for body and hair milks, as well as eye area care products.

Dow launched EcoSense 3000 Surfactant, an addition to Dow’s alkyl polyglucosides portfolio that offers product developers a readily biodegradable surfactant for use in shampoos and body washes. The EcoSense family of products is based on coconut and palm oils, contains no added sulfates or preservatives, and offers excellent foaming and mildness in formulations.

Dr. Straetmans introduced Dermosoft Decalact Deo, a natural deodorant active, and Dermofeel GO Soft, a natural, food-approved emulsifier.

The Personal Care business unit of DSM Nutritional Products announced Alpaflor Edelweiss, an organic certified skin care ingredient that harnesses the protective power of the rare Alpine Edelweiss. Alpaflor Edelweiss is extracted from a specially cultivated, unique Edelweiss strain called Leontopodium alpinum Helvetia, which has been shown in particular to stimulate key proteins in the epidermis that are responsible for the optimal protection and regeneration capabilities of the skin. The ingredient also works to protect and regenerate the skin’s natural barrier, as leontopodic acid particularly— which was discovered for the first time in Leontopodium alpinum—has significant antioxidant, radical-scavenging, protection properties.

Extracts & Ingredients debuted Olivoil Fruttoside, a highly foaming surfactant derived from fruit sugar and condensed through a reaction with the fatty acids derived from coconut oil and olive oil and their partial sodium salt.