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Beauty Ingredients with an Eco Edge

GCI Editors

AAK Personal Care extended its Lipex line of shea-based functional emollients with an eco-designed ester called Lipex SheaLight, which can be used in a wide range of cosmetics. In response to the global trend toward making skin care products lighter, particularly body lotions and facial care products, the ester targets beauty brands that want to develop safe, stable formulations combining light, dry sensorial properties with a better sustainability profile.

Active Organics, Inc.’s ActiGuard S is designed around extracts of the ancient grain, Sorghum (Sorghum bicolor). Due to a proprietary extraction process, ActiGuard S performance ingredient is rich in bioactive phytochemicals and is ideal as a solution for sensitive, inflamed and overly reactive skin conditions.

Air Products improves moisture retention with the latest addition to its Rovi cosmetic active ingredient portfolio. Dermohydrine Cellular Active is a moisturizing solution that can meet the natural ingredient demands of today’s consumers. The active is comprised of natural extracts to enhance the moisture retention levels of the skin. The active can be formulated into skin care for the face, body and hands/feet.

AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry, Personal Care introduced Dry-Flo TS, a non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified tapioca starch that may be used to cost-effectively enhance the aesthetics of a broad variety of skin care products.

Alban Muller International released Amiderm ER, a plant-based ingredient developed to preserve the pH balance of the skin. Based on a witch hazel tannin, the ingredient’s mode of action makes it useful in all situations when skin is stressed by an increase in pH: particularly sensitive and moisture prone areas of the body, and is appropriate for products such as deodorant, baby care and intimate hygiene.
Alban Muller also debuted Amipreserve, a natural preservative that offers a safe anti-microbial solution to protect cosmetic products, and Amiperfect, which offers keratolytic, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory action to purify the skin and promote the elimination of dead cells, smooth blemishes and wrinkles, and encourage the regeneration of the epidermis.

Beauty Creations, the cosmetic active ingredient business of BASF, is now offering Shadownyl, a potent brown seaweed extract to combat the formation of wrinkles and dark circles around the eyes for a fully refreshed and enlightened eye contour.
Beauty Creations also introduced the plant-based Freshaxyl, a natural efficient anti-odor active for the growing deo market. It is a synergistic blend of moringa polypeptide extract and plant-based glyceryl laurate, which acts at two essential levels to help dramatically reduce bodily odors.

Beraca’s Beracare DPS (Dermal Protective Active System) is its first active ingredient to act in the dermal layer, contributing to skin protection and regeneration. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties protect the skin from damage caused by UVA rays, and help improving and maintaining skin’s elasticity.
The company also launched Patauá Oil. Sourced from the fruit of an Amazonian palm tree, Patauá Oil is a moisturizing agent with high oleic acid content (75%) and unique properties such as transparency and light, non-greasy feel. It can be used as a substitute for olive oil in skin care and hair care products.

Berkem introduced Polynektars, a range of plant-based cosmetic active ingredients based on polyphenols. Origa’light is rich in polyphenols from the hydroxycinnamic acid family. In addition to giving the extract antioxidative capability, allowing it to absorb free radicals to prevent the appearance of signs of aging, they allow it to lighten the complexion through its anti-tyrosinase features.
The company also launched Fresh’ka. Developed to brighten the skin, it is rich in polyphenols from the flavonoid family. The active brightens dull skin by toning micro-vessels in the skin and contributing to better cellular oxygenation; refining skin texture through an astringent effect that decreases pore diameter and tightens skin with tannins; and lightening the complexion gently using anti-tyrosinase properties.

Bio-Botanica introduced ZeaBasics, naturally derived plant extracts with Zemea propanediol manufactured via its biochelation cold extraction process. Zemea was developed by DuPont Tate & Lyle as a pure colorless glycol derived from a sustainable corn sugar process.

Botanic Innovations added Tomato Seed Oil to its product portfolio. It has a bright reddish orange color and is rich in carotenoid antioxidants—including lycopene, lutein and zeaxanthin. Tomato seed oil has special value as an ingredient in beauty products, including those for mature, aging skin; dry skin; irritable skin; brittle or damaged hair; acne and sun care. It has a light viscosity, high nutrient values, and superior skin absorption, along with good stability and shelf life.

Calumet Penreco debuted hybrid petrolatum blends that combine Snow White Petrolatum USP with natural macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, safflower oil or olive oil. Designed to offer a more natural alternative to petrolatum alone.

Campo Research’s Plantservative is a fully active broad spectrum preservative isolated from Lonicera Japonica and Lonicera Caprifolium. Created using a super critical extraction technology to produce the extract with little to no waste, no chemical residues and free of heavy metals, it is suitable for the antimicrobial protection of cosmetic and personal care applications.

Clariant launched Plantasens, a product range recently acquired from CRM International, that includes plant-based actives, unique emulsifiers and a broad selection of emollients ranging from vegetable oils and natural butters to alternatives to silicones, petrolatum and lanolin.
Clariant also introduced three lines of biopolymers that are vegetal-based. They include Vitipure, which repairs and protects skin, reduces wrinkles, boosts elasticity and firmness, and rebalances and hydrates skin; Velsan, which provides a natural, vegetal replacement for silicones in skin care, repairs and coats hair in hair care products, and creates a creamy foam; and Zenvivo, a vegetal chitosan that reduces odor in mouthwash and deodorants, boosts preservation in cosmetics, acts as a film-former in hairstyling, sun care and cosmetics, and provides conditioning in skin and hair care.

Croda added a natural emulsifying wax to its NatraGem range of high performance solubilizers and emulsifiers that is both electrolyte tolerant and compatible with high/low polarities. NatraGem EW demonstrates excellent stabilization and thickening properties, and is appropriate for formulations ranging from lotions to high viscosity creams. Its use does not result in a whitening effect on the skin, while it does provide sensory benefits. Also, it is compatible with a broad range of commonly used personal care actives. The wax is 100% naturally derived, biodegradable and approved natural by Ecocert. It is recommended for formulation in skin care, hair care, sun care, color cosmetics, baby care and natural creams and lotions.
Croda also introduced Keramimic 2.0, a biomimetic keratin developed using proteomics to offer targeted repair for damaged areas of hair, and KeraDyn HH—a conditioning agent designed to deliver healthy dynamics to damaged hair by enhancing fiber alignment and reducing friction between strands for a better movement.

Crodarom, a French subsidiary of the Croda Group, introduced a flower extract from Asia that contributes to an illuminated complexion. Crodarom Porcelain Flower has soothing, antioxidant and moisturizing benefits. The flower is grown in Asia, where it has been used in traditional Chinese medicine an anti-inflammatory, and the ingredient can be used in illuminating skin care or makeup with illuminating benefits such as BB creams.

Additionally, Crodarom launched Chufa Milk EC, designed to provide nutrients to protect skin and hair. It is obtained from the organically farmed tubers of Cyperus esculentus, commonly called chufa or tigernut. Consisting of sugars, amino acids, flavonoids, minerals and vitamins B, C and E, chufa provides moisturizing and antioxidant properties that may be used in both skin and hair care applications. Ecocert-certified, the ingredient is recommended for body and hair milks, as well as eye area care products.

Dow launched EcoSense 3000 Surfactant, an addition to Dow’s alkyl polyglucosides portfolio that offers product developers a readily biodegradable surfactant for use in shampoos and body washes. The EcoSense family of products is based on coconut and palm oils, contains no added sulfates or preservatives, and offers excellent foaming and mildness in formulations.

Dr. Straetmans introduced Dermosoft Decalact Deo, a natural deodorant active, and Dermofeel GO Soft, a natural, food-approved emulsifier.

The Personal Care business unit of DSM Nutritional Products announced Alpaflor Edelweiss, an organic certified skin care ingredient that harnesses the protective power of the rare Alpine Edelweiss. Alpaflor Edelweiss is extracted from a specially cultivated, unique Edelweiss strain called Leontopodium alpinum Helvetia, which has been shown in particular to stimulate key proteins in the epidermis that are responsible for the optimal protection and regeneration capabilities of the skin. The ingredient also works to protect and regenerate the skin’s natural barrier, as leontopodic acid particularly— which was discovered for the first time in Leontopodium alpinum—has significant antioxidant, radical-scavenging, protection properties.

Extracts & Ingredients debuted Olivoil Fruttoside, a highly foaming surfactant derived from fruit sugar and condensed through a reaction with the fatty acids derived from coconut oil and olive oil and their partial sodium salt.

Evonik created Tego Cistus, a standardized plant extract highly enriched in polyphenolsrom pink rock rose. It provides protection by reducing sunburn cells and neutralizing free radicals to combat undesirable effects of sun exposure.
The company also launched Tego Feel Green, a sensory additive based on unmodified natural cellulose particles from renewable sources; Tegolon Eco 10-10, consisting of polyamide particles based on nylon-10,10; and Tego Stemlastin, a standardized red algae extract that is unique in its capability to produce gamma-aminobutryic acid. It is produced in a natural, eco-friendly way using a photo bio-reactor. It has, according to the company, been shown to have a combined activity on epidermal stem cells and elastic fibers.

Fenchem launched a new active formula, A-132, designed to be effective for the treatment of acne. The active ingredients in the formula are four Chinese traditional herbs, which help reduce the secretion of sebum, inhibiting Propionibacterium acnes and repairing acne. It can be mixed with other ingredients in a serum or gel.

Floratech introduced L22, a patented botanical emollient base that emulates the skin lipid profile of a healthy 22-year-old. In its development, the company followed research showing how human skin oil is composed of various types of lipids that vary in proportion as a function of age, and L22 delivers the same type and ratio of lipid components typically present at 22 years of age.

Gattefossé added cherry and cranberry waters to its Original Extracts line of vegetal waters, which now complies with the COSMOS standard. The company’s Original Extract Cherry Bio and Original Extract Cranberry Bio are 100% certified-organic, transparent waters obtained with a novel, mild extraction process, followed by evaporation and condensation. These waters are alternative sources of water that are suitable for the formulation of organic or natural skin care, hair care, makeup and toiletries.
Gattefossé also introduced Gatuline Radiance, an Asian shrub extract that stimulates microcirculation for improved skin radiance.

Hallstar developed Olivem VS Feel, a secondary emulsifier engineered to help sustaining and structuring O/W systems increasing viscosity and stability, while imparting pleasant sensorial and physiological benefits to formulations. It works to promote barrier function, hydration and pleasant skin feel, and was treated accordingly to green chemistry criteria.

IBR Ltd. launched IBR-Gapture 1101, an extract of jojoba leaf that improves skin structure and reduces water loss. It aids in increasing skin moisture and enhancing skin performance with improvement of the skin barrier, resulting from the decrease of dehydration and improved skin integrity expressed in smoothing effects.

Impact Colors offers two natural microbead solutions featuring the active ingredients of rice and bamboo. Rice Exfoliator Vision Beads and Bamboo Exfoliator Vision Beads, which are entirely natural and biodegradable, work at the cellular level to naturally restore skin’s beauty through gently sloughing off skin’s surface cells. These exfoliation spheres gently exfoliate and deeply clean the skin while protecting and moisturizing, and Vision Beads are available in a range of colors—from red, yellow, green, and blue, to black, white, and silver tones. They are easily formulated into creams, lotions, gels, and hair products—wherever a distinctive visual effect is desired.

Induchem released Neodermyl, an active ingredient that, according to the company, offers the same results within 15 days as an injection of a collagen filler (approximately 15% of wrinkle depth reduction). And it uses bio-renewable energy to reactivate collagens and elastin synthesis in the skin.
Induchem also launched Rubixyl and the RUBI (Receptors Uphold against Bioaging) technology. Rubixyl acts on the skin receptors necessary to maintain the youthfulness of skin. The ingredient helps skin appear smoother and more hydrated, with a reduction of deep wrinkles such as crow’s feet.

Inolex released a range of 100% natural and sustainable emollients using bio-based succinic acid from BioAmber. These succinate emollients have the sensory feel of silicone fluids, including feeling silky, powdery, light, dry and nongreasy to the touch. Highly versatile because of their sensory properties and ability to disperse pigments, they can be used in skin care, hair care, color and antiperspirant products to provide shine and a light, fast-drying emolliency. Inolex is commercializing a range of succinate technologies as natural silicone alternatives called the LexFeel N range.

Jeen International introduced its patented Jeesperse Ice-T Instant Cold Emulsion Technology. Building on the Jeesperse Cold Process Wax products, the Jeesperse Ice-T series includes optimized powders that, when introduced into water at room temperature, rapidly form stable emulsions—typically eliminating the use of traditional emulsifiers and allowing the addition of waxes into the system without heating. The resulting formulations provide exceptional aesthetics and related benefits to creams, lotions and hair care products. A wide range of natural and synthetic waxes can be incorporated into Jeesperse Ice-T along with various active ingredients, allowing a nearly unlimited number of potential wax melt point and formulation attributes. The sustainable, green focus of Jeesperse Ice-T has been recognized by the U.S. EPA as one of the first technologies to be expedited through its Green Initiatives patent process.

Rosamox is a natural antioxidant from Kemin’s proprietary rosemary, extracted using supercritical CO2, which is a solvent-free, green chemistry, sustainable process. Rosamox quenches reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals that degrade oils and oil-containing formulas resulting in off appearance and odors. It has been Ecocert/COSMOS approved and is now available with organic options.
Also, Kemin offers Lysofix, an Ecocert certified active emulsifier extracted from non-GMO soybeans. It can be used to deliver actives, provide pigment dispersion and provide stable emulsification in either cold or hot processing without a thickening effect.

Laboratoires Expanscience debuted Sweetone, which uses processed schizandra berries to create an active that soothes redness and irritation while decreasing melanin synthesis for a more even complexion. The ingredient is a result of the hydrolysis of dried schizandra berries, and the natural extract soothes skin by modulating inflammation.

The Vedaplex products, offered by Lipo, are a high purity line of botanicals based on the traditional Indian medicine ayurveda. The unique line provides, according to the company, endless opportunities to treat and prevent skin disorders. The specific blends capture the time-honored recipes of ayurveda and work to improve the skin’s overall function, balance and vitality.

Lipotec introduced a marine-derived active that reduces the appearance of aging. Seacode is designed to enhance the synthesis of essential dermal proteins such as collagen I to increase firmness and reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. It is recommended in rejuvenating skin formulations for all ages and skin types.

Lonza Personal Care launched Vivillume, an active derived from white bird of paradise. The ingredient is designed to promote a radiant complexion by reducing the appearance of dark pigmentation in dark under-eye circles, uneven skin pigmentation or a dull, lackluster complexion. This improves skin tone to yield a clear, illuminated complexion.
The company also introduced Natrulon GPS 341, a green ingredient that offers multiple functions for beauty formulations and which can be added as a natural fragrance in order to enhance the aroma of a product. In addition to this benefit, there is a secondary effect where the ingredient in this blend imparts a broad spectrum antimicrobial effect in the product.
And ReGeniStem Red Rice extract upregulates the expression of collagen protein, reducing wrinkles and increasing hydration.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics offers Elix-IR and Phytenso. Elix-IR is a botanical active ingredient designed to fight infrared-induced skin aging. Infrared and its generated heat are responsible for loss of firmness and elasticity in the skin, leading to premature appearance of wrinkles. Elix-IR reduces IR-, UV- and heat-induced MMPs production and fiber degradation. Additionally, Phytenso is a natural hair straightener that is proposed as an alternative to aggressive chemical relaxers. Phytenso fights frizz, locks out humidity and improves hair’s manageability.

Mibelle Biochemistry’s introduced PoreAway, designed to tighten dilated pores and purify the skin based. It’s derived from an aromatic tree resin sourced from the Greek island of Chios.

Molecular Botanicals Ltd. LLC developed a proprietary technology for advanced peptides by combining peptides with a purity of at least 95% and organic herbal extracts achieved with a carbon dioxide extraction process. This proprietary combination is blended into the company’s Alphasomes technology, which allows Molecular Botanicals to offer the product with a sizing between 30 and 100 nanometers for increased skin penetration.

Natural Sourcing announced Professional Strength Grapefruit Seed Extract (60%), a powerful broad spectrum citrus based antimicrobial that can be used to extend product shelf life and protect skin care formulations against bacteria and fungus. It possesses strong antiseptic, germicidal, antibacterial, fungicidal and anti-viral properties, and also acts as an antioxidant. It can be used in moisturizers, serums, balms, facial toners, mud packs, exfoliants, fragrance products, liquid soap and hair care products.

Naturex offers a collection of African plants—kigelia, hibiscus, green rooibos, kola nut and coffee—as selections in its Magic of Africa Collection. Their rich and varied phytochemical profiles make them choice raw materials for the design of high potency extracts, and the Magic of Africa collection was created from a selection of plants with the ability to address these three main principles: the efficacy of their traditional or modern use has been documented; they can be sustainably and responsibly cultivated in partnership with small producers; and they are part of a process to preserve biodiversity and traditional knowledge.

Oat Cosmetics introduced both Ecocert natural-certified and sterile grades of its colloidal oatmeal. Oat Com EUR is a colloidal oatmeal with skin-enhancing properties that is Ecocert/COSMOS natural-certified to be used in the European market. It is recommended as an active skin-enhancing base for creams and lotions.
Also launched, Oat Com IRR is a sterile version of colloidal oatmeal for use in clinical and OTC-type formulations.

Pelletech introduced cellulose-based beads loaded with 30% caffeine for energizing and invigorating beauty products in its new Cosmospheres BRC-M, which is distributed by Presperse in the U.S. The reddish-brown spheres soften when applied to skin for easy spreadability and the release of their caffeine content, and the spheres can be suspended in formulations to give products a visually unique and playful look. They are recommended for inclusion in lotions, creams, gels, shampoos and toothpastes.
Aiming to help restore the youthfulness of skin, Presperse also debuted Lumiesse, its latest anti-aging active ingredient. Lumiesse combines the anti-inflammatory power of natural plant extracts with a stable form of vitamin C. And antioxidant protection combined with a boost in collagen improves texture and reduces the appearance of fine lines. And the company debuted Syner-C, a combo of a skin-lightening vitamin C derivative and a naturally derived anti-inflammatory/ antioxidant for a new approach to skin lightening.

Provital Group, whose products are exclusively distributed by Centerchem in North America, announced Aquaxtrem, a botanical moisturizer based on a new concept: It activates the skin’s own mechanism for long-lasting hydration. The ingredient’s inclusion in a skin care product’s formula can help increase the production of barrier lipids, improve barrier function and stratum corneum cohesion in the skin.
Provital Group also offers Keramare, an active ingredient derived from brown algae that, when injected into the hair matrix, utilizes a natural 3D delivery system to release the active ingredient, leaving shine on even damaged hair.

Rahn’s moisturizer AquaRich, validated by Ecocert and COSMOS, offers a unique composition of black oat extract and lecithin to provide effective, long-lasting skin moisturizing properties. Additionally, new studies reveal AquaRich’s repair effects on hair, improving hair structure, gloss and bounce back, and also helping to prevent the formation of split ends. Suitable for any kind of skin, body and hair care products, AquaRich can be incorporated into gels, emulsions, shampoos and conditioners.
Also, Rahn has combined black currant seed oil with balloon vine extract and sunflower oil concentrate to create a complex that reduces skin inflammation. Defensil-Plus relieves dry, itchy skin by reducing the inflammatory process and replenishing a damaged skin barrier. The complex soothes various forms of acute skin irritation resulting from assault such as razor burn, mosquito bites, chemical irritation, allergic reactions and eczema-related irritation.

Half natural, half nature-identical, schülke launched Sensiva PA 30 as a protection for beauty formulations. Sensiva PA 30 combines the antimicrobial activity of two nature-identical fragrance ingredients that are active against spoilage- and odor-causing germs, with the boosting and skin care properties of a naturally derived emollient. The multifunctional cosmetic additive is ideal protection for leave-on, wet wipe and sensitive applications.

Sederma presented a ginger extract to alleviate leg discomfort and premature aging in the legs. Legance is a vegetal extract of Zingiber zerumbet that inhibits the inflammatory phenomena, leading to lipid storage and water retention, to restore circulation in the legs and relieve the sensation of tiredness. The ginger extract has been found to improve the appearance of legs and ankles, attenuated spider veins and relaxed legs.

Seppic launched Solagum Tara, a thickening and texturizing polymer that is 100% plant-derived and can be used to thicken and stabilize emulsions and cream-gels. The gum is a polysaccharide derived from the seeds of the tara, an emblematic shrub native to the Andean valleys of Peru.

Silab introduced an anti-aging active called Circagenyl that synchronizes skin in a similar way to luminotherapy (light therapy) with lindera oligo-alpha-glucans. Circagenyl restores the expression of the CLOCK circadian gene, stimulates dermal metabolism and boosts the benefits provided by luminotherapy. The active, when used as an alternative or in combination with luminotherapy, reduces the appearance of wrinkles, brightens and hydrates the skin for a more youthful appearance.
Silab also launched its Capicalm active, which protects the scalp from the environmental aggressors, hair dyes and hair treatments that can lead to chronic irritation. This natural anti-irritant can be added to all hair treatment products for weakened scalp. And CellDetox, a purified α-glucan active ingredient obtained by biotechnology process, debuted. It detoxifies cells by removing altered cell components, guarantees cell and tissue longevity, and blocks the accumulation of lipofuscin aggregates. Helping to smooth skin, renew radiance and even tone, CellDetox is recommended for regenerating, detoxifying and anti-aging skin care products.
The ApolluSkin launch introduced a protective antipollution active principle derived from dandelion, a plant known for its detoxifying properties. It limits the inflammation and oxidative stress responsible for skin aging, improving the skin’s complexion. It is recommended for daily skin care products.
Certified by Ecocert Greenlife according to Ecocert and COSMOS standards, Glyco-Repair Bio from Silab is an active skin care ingredient that helps regenerate depleted natural repair systems, which works to fix microlesions suffered by the skin that can alter essential barrier and protective functions. And Prohyal+, an anti-wrinkle active ingredient, was developed. Rich in yeast oligosaccharides from Mexican blue agave leaves, Prohyal+ is a durable ingredient for any anti-aging beauty product, working to hydrate and smooth skin.

The Serdex division of Bayer Santé Familiale S.A.S. introduced Embellia Extract. The Madagascan plant extract is targeted to sensitive and reactive skin thanks to its flavonoids content. Focused on a neurocosmetic purpose, the product hinders the negative processes involved in skin sensitization by imparting anti-inflammatory properties.

Solabia introduced a technology for the skin’s ecosystem based on a bacterial adhesion regulator. Teflose inhibits the adhesion of undesirable or pathogenic bacterial strains involved in the creation of body odors, acne and sensitive skin.

Soliance used the byproducts of the food industry to create a hair shine enhancing ingredient. Glossyliance increases shine and smoothes. The effects of the ingredient were observed ex vivo under a scanning electron microscope, where the hair had been treated with a shampoo formulated with 5% of the ingredient. The company found it to visibly smooth hair scales, and validated that the ingredient increases shine through in vivo and clinical testing. The hair shine ingredient is recommended for hair masks, shampoos and conditioners. Soliance also debuted Syner-GX, a sensorial and natural thickener that stabilizes and brings a soft and smooth touch to formulas. It is a mix of guar and xanthan gums that can stabilize formulas containing salts or electrolytes.
Also, plant-based solubilizer Sophogreen from Soliance is produced from fully natural, locally produced raw materials as an alternative to petroleum-based solubilizers. It also contains a high concentration of sophorolipids. And Appygreen 812, a mild and ecological surfactant, was created as a plant-based formulation booster that improves cleaning and increases the viscosity and foam volume of formulations.

Sonneborn Refined Products presented its SonneNatural 200 series, its latest collection of natural emollients. The line of 100% vegetable-based emollients is an extension of the existing SonneNatural brand and includes three novel offerings—SonneNatural H-203, S-205 and J-207, which offer a range of slip, gloss and cushion to fit any formulation requirement. Each product adds substantive feel and body to formulations without the negative attributes associated with fillers.

Symrise presented natural and sustainable actives for skin and hair from microalgae. In collaboration with Cutech, Symrise identified marine water microalgae as an excellent source for new cosmetic actives and introduced SymHair Force 1631 to help fight hair loss and improve hair density, and SymBronze 1659, a natural biological tanner derived from microalgae. Working from the inside, it provides a natural, sunless tan, accelerates the natural tanning process under sun exposure and prolongs the tan.
And Symrise treats cellulite from three different angles with its SymFit 1617 active launch. The ingredient is designed to reduce adipogenesis to slow the formation of new fat cells, inhibit lipogenesis to reduce fat storage and stimulate lipolysis to burn fat cells. It works well in body care formulations.

Terry Laboratories announced a new development in its growing, harvesting and processing of aloe vera called the NaturLock System. It helps maintain a large percentage of acetylated polymannan polysaccharides, as well as a molecular weight distribution that more closely mimics Mother Nature. The company has started offering this system in its Aloe Vera Gel 1X and Aloe Vera Gel 10X materials.

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A Conversation About Marketing Naturally Positioned Products: Preservation, Consumer Demand and Market Challenges

Dan Winn, chief strategy officer, global head marketing and business development, Inolex, discusses the natural market, issues impacting natural products and consumers, and options available through new technologies and approaches.

GCI: In a spring 2012 report, Organic Monitor stated that the move to new alternative preservative systems is driven, in part, by high consumer demand for natural and organic cosmetics. How much of the move to natural cosmetic ingredient alternatives, of any kind, is driven by growing technologies? How have these technologies evolved over the last five years?

DW: Certainly, when there are growing numbers of options for alternative preservation, it helps the [product developer]. It not only provides them with options but it also gives them confidence to know that many different companies are performing efficacy and safety testing on similar technologies.

A lot of suppliers are offering blends of medium chain glycols. These have a fantastic biostatic capabilities and have become the workhorses of alternative preservation. But nevertheless there remains a need for broad spectrum systems that have efficacy against mold. Inolex’s CHA chelating agent, part of Spectrastat line, is one of the few new ingredients that can do this.

GCI: With many traditional and long-time consumers of natural and organic products familiar with natural preservatives such as grapefruit seed extract, how difficult is it to convince them that new material and technology alternatives remain in line with their reasons for choosing natural and/or organic products in the first place? If the ingredient is unfamiliar or “chemical” sounding, is that consumer turned off?

DW: The natural and organic market has a lot of segmentation, even micro-segmentation. It is true that extracts are widely accepted by all, but that chemical-sounding natural products, even eco-certified ones, are sometimes resisted by certain brands. The brand owner is always the final arbiter: Does the brand have the communication tools at their disposal to educate their consumer about chemical sounding natural materials, or must they avoid them altogether?

I think the public increasingly understands the benefits of good green chemistry—the sustainability, safety and the wider benefits to society. We are finding that brand owners want to know the full story behind our alternative preservatives, and that they are accepting them in their natural cosmetics at a faster rate than just a few ago. Brand owners are finding ways to tell the story about new green chemistry, whether on the label, on their website or through social media.

GCI: Among the developments it notes in creating natural products, Organic Monitor reports the rise in utilizing emollients with membrane-disrupting properties in cosmetic formulations. As emollients are one of Inolex’s areas of expertise, can you explain the basics of this action and the benefits of utilizing emollients over another system or ingredient type?

DW: There are some medium chain glycols, like caprylyl glycol and glyceryl caprylate, that have emolliency and humectancy, but also some membrane disruption capability. They have an interfacial action that is key to making biostatic formulas that inherently resist the growth of bacteria. Furthermore, they are non-toxic and have wonderful environmental profiles. They are so much safer for our health and environment as compared to using biocides. And when we say biocides, we include natural biocides like tea tree oil, which are highly toxic and really should be avoided.

GCI: Organic Monitor’s study states that new alternative preservative systems are usually not as cost-effective as some of the traditionally used systems (used in both natural and non-natural position products). Can you address some basic concerns, whether cost or something else, that a brand owner may have in looking at reformulating or bringing new products to shelf that utilize new technologies/systems to market?

DW: Though I have not seen the study, I would have difficulty agreeing with that conclusion. There are a variety of ingredient, packaging and processing costs involved in making a cosmetic formula. When a brand is converting to “hurdle technology,” they can make adjustments that are cost neutral or perhaps even achieve a savings. In some cases the adjustments have marketing advantages and actually lead to increased sales.

For example, some natural brands use very costly packaging—and I might add, environmentally unfriendly packaging—to avoid microbial contamination during use by the consumer. If they convert to new alternative preservative systems, a whole new range of packaging options become available. Not only can the overall cost be improved, and environmental impact reduced, but new kinds of formulations and consumer experiences become available. The brands that use our alternative preservation systems find they achieve increased revenue from the claims and benefits of their new products.

GCI: What are some of the primary technical and market challenges associated with natural cosmetics? How are new technologies addressing these challenges?

DW: The medium chain glycols that are being used for alternative preservation strategies are fantastic. But some naturals formulas already contain a high level of alcohols, glycols, extracts and fragrance oils that, in some case, are slightly irritating to skin. So the addition of the medium chain glycols can, in combination with these other increases, impact this irritation profile. A formulator must look at the overall “load” of alcohols, extracts and fragrance compounds in their formulation in order to avoid irritation.

That is why the new CHA technology of our Spectrastat line is so beneficial. It is a chelating agent, not a glycol, yet it has biostatic effects. Thus the use of Spectrastat allows the reduction of the overall glycol load, and improve some of the irritation issues.

GCI: On its website, Inolex states that it is focused on “new ingredients for the cosmetics industry that make cosmetics better, and ultimately provide consumers with a perceivable benefit.” Can you describe a consumer need/benefit the company recognized and the ingredient/technology that was the outcome? What need/benefit is emerging or still waiting to be addressed?

DW: Inolex looks at consumer benefits from many angles. There is, of course, the immediate benefits of performance on skin and hair that one typically thinks of. But there is also the psychological and emotional benefits that consumers receive by being less anxious about the chemicals they bring into their home, or put on their children. In many cases, the consumer is looking for a longer-term lifestyle benefit—they want to know that their consumption is renewable and that they won’t be passing along environmental hazards to future generations.

We looked at all these issues when we recently launched the LexFeel N-Series, a range of fluids that can be used to replace cyclomethicone and dimethicone. These fluids are 100% natural and renewable, with the safest possible toxicity and environmental profiles. They provide much of the same sensory feel that consumers have come to expect from silicones. The LexFeel N-Series addresses many of lifestyle benefits consumers seek, without sacrificing performance.

Contract Manufacturing News

Diamond Wipes International is now registered to handle and process organic ingredients and products. The certification allows brands to market their products as certified organic to best meet the needs of their consumers in an environmentally and socially responsible way.

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