Color Cosmetics, Skin Care, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Late June 2013

Evonik Industries opened a new innovation center for beauty and cosmetic products at its Goldschmidtstraße site in Essen, Germany. Some 90 employees of the company’s consumer specialties business unit will work in the innovation center, which covers a total area of approximately 5,000 square meters on five floors with both laboratories and office space. A special separate workshop area is available for cooperative projects with customers.

Actives International, LLC announced its president and CEO, Jon Anderson, PhD, was named a finalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur Of The Year 2013 Award in the New Jersey region. The awards program recognizes high-growth entrepreneurs who demonstrate excellence and extraordinary success in such areas as innovation, financial performance and personal commitment to their businesses and communities.

DKSH Business Unit Performance Materials is strengthening its position in the European market, successfully integrating Staerkle & Nagler, becoming a member of the FECC (the European Association of Cosmetic Distributors), engaging in new and expanding current distribution partnerships—including with Nagase for its specialty additives range for the personal care industry—adding new sales personnel in Germany, Spain, the U.K., France and Italy, and expanding its European Regulatory Affairs Competence Center in Lyon.

Ashland Care Specialties announced Ecocert verified Supercol GF Guar and Supercol U Guar rheology modifiers conform to its standards and those of COSMOS for natural cosmetics.

TRI-K Industries’ partners Mibelle Biochemistry and Miwon Commercial Company participated as speakers at the 2013 SCC Annual Scientific Seminar held in St. Louis, Missouri on June 6 and 7. For Mibelle, Dr. Fred Zülli and Dr. Daniel Schmid presented “Diabetic Skin: Models and Clinical Studies to Develop Actives to Treat Glycated Skin,” while Dr. Yunsub Lee and Dr. Myongok Kim spoke on “Use of Tripeptide for the Prevention and Repair of Skin Aging and Hyperpigmentation” for Miwon.

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Eugene Frank, PhD, joined contract manufacturer and private label filler Solo Labs, Inc. Frank has served in the beauty and personal care industry for over 40 years, working at both branded companies along with companies in the contract packaging and private label markets. In his new capacity, he will be responsible for technical service functions including R&D, regulatory affairs and quality assurance. In addition, sales and customer service functions for the company will be coordinated between himself and other members of the Solo Labs management team.

New Launches

Croda added a rheology modifier to its ViscOptima range that can emulsify and stabilize high levels of oils and silicones in a formulation. ViscOptima SE is an efficient thickener that can create viscous creams at low inclusion levels to leave a smooth, silky, silicone-like feel to the skin. The ingredient can be incorporated at any time during formulation including post addition, and is useful in facial creams, body cream, eye cream, moisturizing cream and moisturizing lotion.

A primary objective for skin care is to ensure an optimal level of hydration of the stratum corneum to maintain flexibility and smoothness of the skin for as long as possible, and this is what the new PatcH2O by Beauty Creations, the cosmetic active ingredient business of BASF, does in an efficient manner. Inspired by the company’s expertise in natural macromolecules and the technology of the controlled release of cosmetic active ingredients, PatcH2O is a molecular network of natural biopolymers with a high concentration of a moisturizing complex containing glycerin, serine, trehalose and urea that offers optimal hydration by acting at two levels. it helps it to maintain optimal skin conditions, as well as a healthy and youthful appearance, and is recommended for all skin care applications claiming immediate skin hydration, for dry skin treatments, as well as in support of anti-aging skin care ranges.

Inolex unveiled its new Spectrastat L-Series, the latest addition to the Spectrastat line of alternative preservatives that contain the biostatic agent, CHA. The new systems offer wet wipes brands and converters the opportunity to meet consumer needs for products that are free of traditional biocides, such as parabens and formaldehyde donors. To develop the Spectrastat L-series, Inolex consulted with leading experts in the non-wovens and wet wipes industries. The research took into account the unique production and formulation requirements, along with factors associated with the non-woven substrates. The resulting products, Spectrastat OL and Spectrastat OEL, are liquids that easy-to-use in high throughput wipe production, and they pass stringent microbial challenge tests on a variety of substrates.

Evonik introduced two new raw materials: a copolymer rheology modifier for mild cleansing and a silicone-based emulsifier for color formulations. Tego Carbomer 841 SER is a crosslinked polyacrylic acid copolymer designed to control the rheology of surfactant systems, providing synergistic thickening for various personal cleansing systems, and it provides excellent clarity in shampoos or body washes, as well as can be used in facial cleansers, liquid soaps, bath gels and more. Abil EM 120 is a multipurpose PEG-free w/o emulsifier, compatible with all types of cosmetic emollients. In color cosmetic products, the emulsifier provides the advantage of enhanced color trueness as well as improved wetting of black iron oxide leading to enhanced color intensity. Although it provides special benefits to color formulations (foundations, primers, concealers, BB creams and CC creams), the emulsifier is also recommended for lotions, creams and emulsion-based AP/deo systems.

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