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Paraben and Formaldehyde Removal, in-cosmetics 2014 Launches, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Late March 2014

Posted: March 25, 2014

TRI-K Industries implemented a major initiative designed around removing all parabens and formaldehyde donors from its protein lines. As of December 1, 2013, all its liquid cosmetic proteins are now produced with its new preservative platform NPNF (non-paraben, non-formaldehyde). This robust platform was created for the company’s line of vegetable and non-vegetable based proteins.

Due to a fire caused by a technical equipment failure that occurred at BASF’s citral plant in Ludwigshafen, Germany, on March 12, 2014, the company had to shut down the plant and is forced to declare Force Majeure on citral-based aroma chemicals, as well as vitamin A and vitamin E products for human and animal nutrition.

Biosil Technologies completed a study demonstrating that its BioPlex Cetylsil S is able to provide hair breakage protection when used in products to protect hair from thermal damage during flat ironing. The results show the test product with 5% BioPlex Cetylsil S measures up to the benchmark of a well-known leave-in heat protection treatment. BioPlex Cetylsil S provides good protection against thermal damage after 20 passes of flat ironing at 450°F.

Merck announced the signing of an agreement with Laboratory Skin Care, Inc. for its cosmetic active ingredient Hydroxysomes Calcium. According to the agreement, Merck will market the active ingredient globally as a co-brand under the name Ronacare Hydroxysomes Calcium as of October 2014. In the interim, Merck KGaA will gradually take on the responsibility for marketing, sales, logistics and application technology customer support. The substance uses a sophisticated mechanism to transport calcium into deep layers of the skin and there revitalizes the skin.

Impact Colors announced a new logo and branding that represents the multi-faceted nature and cutting-edge technology of its unique specialty lines.

The 2014 PCHi Innovation Awards honored two cosmetic ingredients from Symrise. SymHair Force 1631 succeeded as breakthrough ingredient of the year for its hair-fortifying properties, and in the functionals/preserving category, SymSave H won the award with its multifunctional and stabilizing properties.

Based on its research on the natural active market for dandruff, Frost & Sullivan presented Greentech with its 2014 European Frost & Sullivan Award for new product innovation leadership for developing Dandrilys, a plant-based, natural ingredient that mitigates scalp irritation, reduces dandruff, normalizes sebum production and subsequently, facilitates the growth of healthy hair.

DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Company applauded Cheryl Lee MD, Sensitive Skin Care for launching the TrueLipids line of therapeutic, hypoallergenic and non-toxic skin care products made with Zemea propanediol. The patent-pending line of TrueLipids products are all designed to work with the skin to augment its own repair mechanisms in fixing a disrupted skin barrier, to discourage the colonization/growth of S. aureus, and to optimize skin lipid production while being effective, hypoallergenic and non-toxic. Products in the TrueLipids line that are made with Zemea include TrueLipids TrueTherapy Deep Moisturizing Ceramide+ Cream For Body, TrueLipids Hydrate, Correct & Perfect Lotion For Face and Body and TrueLipids Eczema Experts 1 percent Hydrocortisone Anti-Itch Barrier Cream.

Horn has been awarded with Cabot Corporation’s 2013 “North American Distributor Performance Award,” recognizing Cabot’s top distributor throughout the U.S. and Canada.

Lonza released its 2013 Annual Report, showing its overall results for 2013 were strong, with Lonza achieving most of the operational targets set for the year, in line with its guidance.

People News

Terry Laboratories announced the appointment of Jim Gambino III as its new general manager.

Koda Care announced the promotion of Bill Carroll to vice president of sales of GMZ Care.

Looking to in-cosmetics 2014

Finding ingredients that provide unique textures and texture transitions are becoming more and more important to beauty product developers worldwide. This desire for texture innovation is being driven by marketers who are constantly seeking to find differentiation for not only their product but their overall brand as well. The challenge to create different product formats and transformations is not an easy one. Developing products that provide visual and/or sensorial effects without compromising performance can be even more difficult. To address this trend, Grant Industries is launching Gransil VX-418 and the Ice Cream Repair concept as part of a dedicated R&D program aimed at providing innovation and new technology in the texture category. The newest addition in the Gransil VX line of silicone waxes, Gransil VX-418 offers innovative texture and sensory capabilities. Comprised of a short-chained silicone and C18 stearyl group, Gransil VX-418 fully transitions from wax to liquid upon skin contact to offer an extremely light sensory feel. This short-chain composition also provides unique rheology performance and reduces possible syneresis effect in formulation. THE Ice Cream Repair concept was designed to highlight the texture and transition innovation that Gransil VX-418 offers in skin care, color cosmetics, body, and hair care.

Croda's new OleoCraft range is a group of oil-structuring polymers that create impressive films on the skin, lips and eyelashes, delivering water and wear resistance benefits in color cosmetic and sun care applications. The OleoCraft range helps product developer create novel formats, from eye-catching clear sticks and balms to sprayable gels and emulsions, as well as produce water and wear resistant polymer films for long-lasting and water repellency benefits. They also work to boost SPF in sunscreens, enhance gloss and shine with minimal sensory impact, increase pigment dispersion and provide emulsion stabilization.

Working to please consumer desires, Dow works with beauty and personal care companies around the world to develop cutting-edge products that can bring luxurious sensations and sparkling formulations to consumers at an affordable price. To this end, Dow plans to debut two innovations at in-cosmetics 2014: a multi-functional suspension technology that enables additional benefits and visual cues to be integrated into cleansing formulations; and a novel sensorial enhancer that helps create affordable facial creams and lotions that leave skin feeling light and smooth, not tacky or greasy.

CareSil is participating in the 2014 in-cosmetics as well. The company’s technical team will be showcasing silicone-based formulations and novel technologies, included features of samples of specially designed formulations that contain CareSil CXG-1104, a dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer that yields less than 0.54% D4.

Joining the Brazil-themed product trail at the 2014 in-cosmetics, Corbion Purac will present formulations for feminine hygiene featuring its L-Lactic Acid products. Corbion Purac recently obtained COSMOS approval for most of its Purac and Purasal ingredients for personal care, and at in-cosmetics the company will showcase its expanding range of solutions in hair conditioning, moisturization, anti-aging and men's care.

Also at in-cosmetics, Momentive Performance Materials will introduce its new Silsoft Silk conditioning agent. With Silsoft Silk conditioning agent, a wavy/curly or coarse hair type that is damaged can look and feel beautiful; be easy to manage; and even maintain definition of curls without frizz. This new conditioning agent is easy to incorporate and can be formulated in clear shampoos. In addition, Silsoft Silk conditioning agent deposits efficiently on damaged hair without the need of a deposition aid, due to its high cationic charge density.