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The Future is Here

By: Sara Mason
Posted: March 3, 2010, from the March 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.
  • Therapy involving the replication and stability of chromosomes will hold many promising possibilities for the field of antiaging in the future.
  • The potential for skin rejuvenation is available via plant stem cell technology.
  • There remains a strong trend to further focus on sophisticated science and research in all aspects of product/ingredient development: novel ingredients of all origins, novel delivery systems, and novel ways to substantiate the claims with new techniques and methods.

The beauty industry, particularly since the inception of cosmeceuticals, is built on the principle of innovation. “Manufacturers use new innovation technologies to satisfy consumers’ growing needs, not only for high-quality, efficacious products, but also to provide an increasingly sophisticated blend of therapeutic, natural and eco-friendly ingredients,” says Linda Walker, CEO, CoValence Laboratories. Innovative ingredient concepts from many sources and directions are giving enhanced quality and function to products, with advances that seem far-fetched just around the corner, or even already on shelves.

“The industry is now focusing on new molecular biology strategies and advanced skin delivery systems to enhance the effect of their cosmetic products,” says Walker. Global skin care manufacturers have introduced or are researching a wide range of innovative products, especially in the antiaging and preventive aging segments, capitalizing on consumers’ desire to stay young, as well as the emergence of new science advances. From telomeres, sirtuins and nanotechnology to stem cells, epigenetics and cell-targeting technology, biotechnology is inspiring cosmetic chemists to develop some of the most revolutionary skin care in the history of the industry.

Understanding the processes of aging is paramount to today’s innovation. “Modern biochemical, physiological, biological research labs allow industry scientists to advance in finding solutions to the normal aging phenomena,” says Karl Lintner, technical advisor, Sederma.

Tissue repair—to reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity—via stimulation by designer peptides such as Sederma’s Matrixyl family, improved moisturizing mechanisms via osmotic regulation thus retarding senescence, the biology of aging, at the cellular level, protecting the skin against external aggression by supplying it with its own defense molecules and/or stimulating these systems topically. These are all pathways presently used or explored to slow the signs and symptoms of aging, and sometimes to help reversing some of the most visible ones. “Antiage research will be the main thrust of cosmetic laboratories for years to come,” says Lintner.

Telomeres