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Hot New Ingredients

By: Sam Dhatt
Posted: November 25, 2013, from the December 2013 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Even melasma seems to yield to this skin brightener, with a 0.5% concentration of Chromabright reducing the appearance of melasma by 72% in a study of 14 volunteers, according to Lipotec.

Likewise, the peptide-based whitener ßeta-White, or ß-White, from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, inhibits tyrosinase, but also decreases the very proteins involved in the pigmentation process. In vitro studies demonstrate this liposome-encapsulated peptide’s ability to decrease melanin synthesis better than arbutin and vitamin C. In a study of 23 Asian volunteers, the company claims a cream with 5% ß-White was applied twice daily for 56 days, and after 28 days, ß-White reduced the appearance of pigmented spots by 21%. By day 56, pigmentation declined by 30%.

Under-eye Erasers

Eye creams have become much more sophisticated in the past several years, largely due to one lifter of lids: Eyeseryl. This tetrapeptide from Lipotec has demonstrated a significant decrease in reducing puffiness under the eyes in as few as 14 days. By decongesting water accumulation and offsetting the very mechanisms of eye edema, Eyeseryl at a 10% concentration has been shown to improve skin elasticity by 30% in 30 days, according to Lipotec. Further, at a 1% concentration, Eyeseryl showed a decrease of dark circles under the eyes.

Another eye ingredient to watch, Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin, borrows tradition from the Japanese, who have long steeped citrus peels in hot baths. Citrus fruits’ bioflavonoid content has been revered for its body-warming and circulatory benefits. As a skin care ingredient, Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin helps improve blood circulation to overcome dark under-eye circles formed as a side effect of stress and cold climates.

Typically, hesperidin alone is poorly soluble, meaning it doesn’t play well in formulations. However, proprietary technology from Hayashibara has led to a highly soluble form, which combines a glucose molecule with hesperidin to significantly up its solubility while retaining all the biological benefits. When this proprietary ingredient comes into contact with the skin, the a-glucosidase enzyme slowly releases the hesperidin, making the circulatory benefits bioavailable.

Don’t Get Left Behind

As scientists continue to better understand the interaction between nature, science and skin physiology, the plethora of anti-aging skin ingredients will continue to widen. To best serve your brand, stay in the mix with the most current R&D innovations.

Sam Dhatt is an award-winning cosmeceutical chemist who serves as the CEO and president of DermaQuest Skin Therapy and Allure Labs, a product formulation company, both of Hayward, California. During his more than 20-year career, he has developed and manufactured skin care products for more than 700 companies. Dhatt is a frequent expert author of articles featured in many trade journals and skin care publications.