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Chasing Tomorrow’s Beauty Trends

By: Daniela Ciocan
Posted: October 31, 2013, from the November 2013 issue of GCI Magazine.

I often get asked what the best beauty products are, or which are my favorites. Because there are thousands of products being launched each year, and I am often privileged to try them just as they come to the market, it is always a tough question. One reason being a part of Cosmoprof is so exciting is I get to see entrepreneurs from around the world unveil their innovations, hoping to be the next big thing.

When I am asked about what new trends I have seen, I ponder how to define the term “trend” and what is trendy. Originality that will capture consumer imagination is a key factor; thus here are my predictions for hair, skin, ingredients and niche categories and where they are heading in the next few months and years to come—as well as brands that are leading the way.

Hair Care

The hair care category is experiencing a shift wherein claims and ingredients that are traditionally associated with skin care are now crossing over. Retailers could potentially organize hair care assortments according to classifications such as hair vitality and anti-aging, strengthening and fortifying, hair growth and restructuring, hair volume and texturizing, and hair color renewal. This would enable retailers to help consumers identify the best problem-solving products—and sell more products at higher price points.

Hair vitality and anti-aging: The hair vitality and anti-aging category makes claims consumers have become familiar with in the skin care realm. For example, brand Olez claims to be the equivalent of hair Botox, a unique oxygen therapy that helps detoxify the hair and scalp while removing toxins. The Keratage professional hair care brand also makes age-defying claims; the line consists of a series of treatments designed to repair the hair from inside out with its Kernox patented technology, which it touts as a scientific breakthrough in the anti-aging hair care category. And Italian company Landoll launched a three-item hair care collection featuring hyaluronic acid, marine collagen and marine algae. This professional-use line is meant to be used in salons as a treatment, and clients get a shampoo to use at home as a follow-up routine to help rejuvenate hair.

Strengthening and fortifying: Claiming to rebuild hair texture, the Toppik hair care brand features keratin fibers that cling to existing hair and fill in thinning or balding areas. Meanwhile, the newly launched hair care line gutZgray utilizes technology in non-embryonic stem cell research and comes enriched with essential oils, extracts and vitamins specifically created for the coarse gray hair market.

Hair growth and restructuring: The hair growth and restructuring segment is not only enjoying the advent of devices such as laser brushes and caps but is also showing advances in bringing to market natural, drug-free and even gluten-free formulations and dermatology-endorsed hair care products.

Hair Essentials is positioned as an all-natural, 100% drug-free, certified gluten-free breakthrough formula that naturally combats hair loss, revitalizes hair follicles, and nourishes thicker, healthier, faster-growing hair. Meanwhile Revivogen Pro claims to be the first medically formulated natural solution for thinning hair from the dermatologist office.

Hair volume and texturizing: The hair volume and texturizing market, while present for a long time, is now poised for tremendous growth as the ethnic population segment is predicted to expand significantly in the years to come. In fact, it is estimated that 80% of the growth in the U.S. beauty market will be driven by ethnicities other than Caucasian over the next seven years. Retailers should move this category and merchandise it side by side with the other categories mentioned as non-ethnic customers may need similar formulations for their hair.

Brands leading the way include ApHogee Curlific!, a new line of products for textured, wavy and curly hair that includes the brand’s exclusive PropHytamine Complex, which utilizes precise levels of proteins, emollients and humectants to achieve and maintain healthy hair. Another new product line, Miss Jessie’s Jelly Soft Curls is a styler specifically designed to leave curls touchably soft and crunch free while providing shine and hold.

Hair color renewal: The next barrier to break in the hair market is the hair color renewal category, meaning products that help gray hair turn back to its original color by altering the pigmentation of the hair strand. Many companies are conducting extensive R&D in this area, and some are even starting to claim some success.

Shu Uemura’s Full Shimmer is an illuminating hair care collection that adds vibrancy to color with musk rose oil that leaves hair with a glazed touch from roots to ends. Musk oil helps prevent oxidation and boosts shine and color. And Shiseido’s Adenogen Hair Energizing Formula is an ultra-intensive, fully reinvigorating treatment for hair that works at the root and scalp. The energizing lotion is designed to be massaged into the scalp to restore hair’s natural vitality, thickness and healthy sheen.

Skin Care

As the hair care market is heading into the segmentation and claims pioneered by skin care products, what’s evolving in the skin care market? Several shifts are occurring that indicate important changes to this market’s dynamic.

As expected as the baby boomer generation gets older, consumers are seeking more powerful actives and results. It is estimated that in the next decade, 65% of all future growth in the beauty industry will come from older consumers.

At the same time, many younger women are opting for advanced anti-agers at an earlier age. The days of marketing skin care products by age groups are long gone. What we will see going forward will likely be broad categories using skin’s behavior as the cornerstones for positioning products.

Also, due to advancing technology, skin care brands are now able to fine tune the delivery mechanisms and active ingredients to best deliver ingredients into skin, bringing in the so-called “super anti-agers.” The super anti-agers deliver cosmeceutical, OTC-grade performance by combining powerful actives, delivery systems and novel approaches aimed at enhancing skin’s functions.