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SPF, Efficacy and Innovation

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: August 28, 2008, from the February 2007 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 6 of 9

“Formulations considered as light, sheer and soft to the touch are more in line with consumer needs,” says Tolchinsky. “Innovative delivery technologies, like the continuous spray form, continue to capture the attention of consumers and drive sales.”

“One of the most important effects we can obtain from any sun protection product is UV protection with little or no generation of free radicals on the skin,” says Croda’s Chen. It is believed that free-radical damage causes a deterioration of the skin’s support structures, thereby decreasing elasticity and resilience. Chen notes that Croda offers sun care formulators the option to build in the benefits of free-radical scavenging with Optisol UV absorber, an inorganic sunscreen active made from a manganese modified titanium dioxide.

“Tests show that a portion of the manganese ions introduced into the structural lattice of Optisol are also associated on the external surface of the inorganic particle, providing the benefits of free radical scavenging on skin. By virtue of the free radical scavenging properties, Optisol actually reduces the free radical loading of sunscreen formulas, protecting the sunscreen actives from degradation while enhancing the photostability of the formulation,” says Chen.

Sunscreen Active Dispersion

“Croda’s Solaveil line of sunscreen dispersions, from (its) recent Uniqema acquisition, deliver the benefits of efficient and truly transparent UV protection with an optimized blend of carrier emollients that lend an elegant, nongreasy skin-feel to formulas,” says Mary Clarke, director of sales development, Croda.

According to the company, these dispersions of inorganic sunscreens offer formulators and marketers a ready-made solution for daily skin care products, premium beach sunscreens, sensitive skin care products and wipes where skin feel is a major selling proposition. Products in the line allow formulators to achieve both SPF targets and consumer-desirable sensory attributes with a 50% active dispersion, according to the company.