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In addition to meeting the challenges that every sun protection product faces (SPF, feel, etc.), what other challenges must natural sun care face in order to be viable on the shelves? GCI asked Croda’s Sonia Dawson, marketing executive – botanicals, how Croda serves customers looking to add naturals to their sun care offerings.
GCI: What is the market demand for naturals in the sun care segment?
Sonia Dawson: Proof that people are more interested in protecting skin from premature aging is evident in the acceptance of new product categories such as daily wear. Croda is supporting marketers and formulators in their efforts to produce high-value daily wear products that address skin protection with a series of ingredients that function at the cellular level. Phytessence Urucum, our super antioxidant offering, contains tocotrienols that can penetrate the skin much more efficiently than tocopherol (vitamin E), providing a high level of protection from free radical damage. Phytessence Urucum is derived from the seed pulp of the South American Achiote tree, one of the richest sources of tocotrienol—five times more than palm oil, 20 times more than wheat germ oil and 140 times more than coconut oil.
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GCI: What does Croda see as the “must haves” in natural sun care offerings (in terms of consumer needs)?
SD: While it is true that a limited number of sunscreens are approved for use in UV attenuation, select natural ingredients can be added to formulas as an option to deliver benefits that go beyond those found in traditional product forms. Higher value sun care products can be made with the addition of natural ingredients that function at the cellular level. Formulas containing functional naturals have significant potential in the marketplace going forward, given that many educated and upscale consumers are increasingly interested in adopting the best available products designed to reduce or even mitigate the damaging effects of the sun. Croda is supporting product makers in this area with botanicals proven in the laboratory to enhance the natural detoxification of keratinocytes.
Phytessence French Rose, which contains proanthocyanidins like those found in green tea, is one example of a functional natural ingredient proven to increase the amount of glutathionylated (GSH) proteins when the skin is under oxidative stress. Tests show the addition of just 0.03% can result in a 30% increase in GSH protein expression in keratinocyte cultures—vital in cellular detoxification, free radical scavenging, immune activation, DNA repair and the regeneration of vitamin C and E. Phytessence French Rose, a clear liquid with mild properties, provides an ideal solution to daily wear moisturizers formulated for UV protection.
GCI: How can Croda support these consumer needs with naturals?
SD Croda offers the Phytesence French Rose botanical and other higher value natural ingredients as options for boosting the beneficial effects of sun care formulas containing FDA approved sunscreens. Because these botanicals provide functional benefits in an all-natural ingredient profile, formulators and marketers can produce very distinctive products for discerning consumers.