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Read the Label: NIOD Sanskrit Saponins Cleanser

Contact Author Katerina Steventon, Ph.D., FaceWorkshops LLC,
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NIOD Sanskrit Saponins Cleanser is a pH-balanced cleansing balm designed to meet the daily needs of all skin types.

The balm is reportedly fortified with highly concentrated, unrefined Ayurvedic plant surfactants and purports to contain no purified or synthetic surfactants, oils or micellar technologies. Targeting all forms of build-up, the product works to eliminate excess oil and impurities in order to alleviate blemishes and congestion in skin.

The cleanser provides a deep and thorough cleansing action to leave skin visibly healthy and radiant, and minimize the appearance of pores. Free from alcohol, oil, silicones and sulfates, the cruelty-free formula also touts its vegan-friendly status.

Users are instructed to apply the product once every other day, although it can be used more frequently if desired. The product should be wetted and massaged between the palms of the hands for a few seconds to form a paste-like lather. It is then applied to the entire face and massaged gently, avoiding the eyes. Finally, it should be rinse thoroughly.

This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.

Editor's note: This article aims to provide an idea of the ingredients cosmetic manufacturers are using that could potentially support the stated product claims. Without specified use levels or access to clinical studies, the author is drawing conclusions based on speculation; albeit from years of clinical experience and, in some instances, evidence in the literature. The following is offered for your consideration and further verification.

Ayurvedic Alchemy and Water Base

The formula is a water based system including a number of surfactant extracts from Ayurvedic plants containing high concentrations of saponins: Sapindus mukurossi (soapberry), Acacia concinna (also known as "the hair fruit") and Gypsophila paniculata root, which are traditionally used for mild cleansing of the skin.

Balanites aegyptiaca (desert date) also contains saponins plus other plant actives, i.e., alkaloids, that provide antimicrobial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties. Glycerin, a humectant, provides hydration. Arginine is pH adjuster, used to increase skin hydration and alleviate surfactant lead irritation.

Surfactants, Formulating Aids and Preservatives

The formula also contains a surfactant system of stearic acid with PPG-26-buteth-26, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and polysorbate 60, which have emulsifying properties. Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate is a chelating agent and sodium polyacrylate is a film-forming emulsion stabilizer.

The formula is preserved by sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate and phenoxyethanol. Finally, chlorphenesin is an antimicrobial and biocide compound.

Conclusions

In my view, the ingredients support the claims for a pH-balanced, efficacious facial cleanser. The formula does, however, contain synthetic surfactants. It also is not ideal for sensitive skin types.

Ingredients: Water (aqua), Sapindus Mukurossi Fruit Extract, Stearic Acid, Arginine, Glycerin, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Polyacrylate, Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract, Balanites Aegyptiaca (Desert Date) Fruit Extract, Gypsophila Paniculata Root Extract, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

Source: NIOD website

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