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Biolie's Upcycled Cucumber, Isocumis, Depuffs and Moisturizes Under-eye Area

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Using upcycled cucumbers, Isocumis is a moisturizing active that can also reduce eye puffiness and dark circles.


Biolie’s Isocumis (INCI: Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract (and) Propanediol) derives the high amounts of water, vitamins and minerals in cucumbers to bring freshness and other benefits to skin care products.

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The ingredient is reminiscent of traditional cucumber slices applied directly on the eyes, which provides a soft and natural solution to reduce puffiness and dark circles, and restores freshness and well-being. To manufacture Isocumis, the company taps into the hundreds of tons of wild cucumbers that grow and do not meet mass market produce specifications, or are not utilized in food production.

Using its patented enzymatic extraction process, Biolie transforms cucumber residues, particularly the cellulose of plant cell walls, by anaerobic digestion in a biorefinery concept. The resulting extract is rich in entities that reportedly enhance skin hydration; in fact, more than 50% of the dry matter of the active reportedly consists of monosaccharides, glucose and fructose.

The active’s moisturizing properties were demonstrated as part of a clinical test (corneometry) versus placebo. The company found that Isocumis provided a maximum level of hydration to the upper layers of the epidermis 1 hr after application, which continued for 3 hr. These results exemplified the active’s moisturizing activity, restoring softness to the skin.

This ingredient is suitable for natural cosmetics as it is COSMOS-approved. Isocumis can be integrated into a range of moisturizing formulations such as face and body emulsions, serums, lotions, tonics, micellar waters and face or eye masks.

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