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The Mysteries of R&D, Part I

By: Art Rich, PhD
Posted: June 22, 2010, from the July 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 5 of 5

Glitter ingredients for eye shadow develop color (and color change) on the lid when light strikes the color particles, which are sandwiches of colorants and mica in small particle size. Creamy eye shadow uses emulsion technology, and powdered eye shadow uses pressed powder technology.

Mascara uses pigments and film formers to lay down a coating on the lash. As the coating dries, it leaves a pigmented film which gives increased body and length to the lash.


Hopefully, this article has given you a bit of an insight into some of the formula types that you will be working on. With this understanding, the relationship with the R&D function will be a little smoother.

Watch for Part II: “Why Does R&D Always Say ‘Not Ready Yet’?”

Art Rich, PhD, is a member of the GCI magazine editorial advisory board. In addition, he is founder and chief consultant at A. Rich Development, LLC., which was founded in 2001. Rich has more than 30 years of experience in the development of marketable personal care and cosmetic formulas for such companies as Johnson & Johnson, Avon, and Bath & Body Works. He can be reached at