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2 in 1: Makeup Meets Skin Care

Sara Mason

It’s no secret women want it all: cosmetics that feel good, look great and last long. Oh, and are good for the skin, too. Sound impossible? Not with the emergence of two-in-one treatment makeup that lets consumers enjoy the benefits of powerful skin care active ingredients in color cosmetics.

The trend is driven by two major preoccupations in the cosmetics market: antiaging and naturals. Makeup brands
with antiaging benefits have induced a $39 million growth in the category in the past two years, according to market information provider Mintel.

In the U.S. alone, the makeup market grew by 6% from 2001 to 2006, totaling $6 billion in sales last year. This dynamic growth reflects the fact that specific areas of the segment are growing faster than others, primarily due to products that incorporate antiaging and natural ingredients in sophisticated ways.

As women pay more attention to what they put on their faces, formulators are challenged to create increasingly sophisticated product forms that answer consumer needs beyond color. With the maturity of the facial makeup market and the rising number of brands in the marketplace, innovation is the key to getting into women’s makeup bags.

Ingredient Innovation

As consumers look beyond the visual effects of makeup, brands expect innovation in a wide range of cosmetic technologies.
Niche specialty chemicals company Perstorp has made a bid to make its mark on the cosmetics and personal care industry with the in-cosmetics 2007 introduction of a palette of intermediate materials—predominately targeting the antiaging and male grooming markets. The company’s global marketing of raw materials for use in cosmetics will be its first venture into the industry.
With confidence that the industry will continue expanding, the company looks to form lucrative partnerships with manufacturers customizing solutions that cater to increased demand. The materials are said to boost the desirability of active ingredients such as vitamins, antioxidants and functional products—as well as UV absorbers, multifunctional emollients, thickeners and polyurethane dispersions.

Perstorp claims its materials palette can achieve durability and substantivity in cosmetics while securing essential properties, such as adhesion and gloss, and emphasizing skin feel and waterproofing in lipsticks and mascara.

Also in response to recent trends, Dow Corning is evolving from its roots in silicon-based technologies with EP-9261 TI, a white cross-linked dimethyl polysiloxane elastomer powder combined with low-particle size titanium dioxide that helps improve SPF while providing smoothness and a non-greasy skin feel. It was launched this fall along with three other multifunctional cosmetic powder innovations developed to provide unique textures and sensory experiences, optical effects, compaction, sebum absorbency and thickening properties.

Dow Corning also has released a range of novel color cosmetic formulations based on the new 9701 Cosmetic Powder, which can mask wrinkles and give skin a silky feel. As a silicone elastomer powder with silica treated coating, its unique composition makes it easy to use in different media—even in the presence of pigments—without sophisticated processes or equipment.

“This versatile powder addresses a growing trend of upscale consumers expecting a youthful look and skin care benefits from their color cosmetics,” said Myriam Delvaux, personal care segment leader, Dow Corning. “The combination of ease-of-use and multifunctional properties will allow formulators to differentiate their color cosmetic applications and deliver antiaging effects and a superior skin feel that consumers demand.”

To broaden the range of care claims for treatment makeup, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques offers Active Powders, which enable a controlled release of a pre-solubilized active ingredient into the skin by spontaneous diffusion. Traditionally, such an introduction of water-soluble active in anhydrous makeup formulation was limited due to raw material incompatibilities and process restrictions. In efficacy studies, this technology has demonstrated its ability to improve the bio-availability of the active.

Innovation is key to meeting the growing market demand for multifunctional products. Within the makeup segment, smaller companies are enjoying fast growth, seizing the opportunity to make their mark.

“Blue sky” innovations like Almay’s smart makeup—updated this year with a blush and bronzer containing microscopic shade-sensing color beads that complement the wearer’s skin tone—and tarte’s nutraceutical core help set the standard for thinking outside of the box.

Core Nutraceuticals

Nutraceuticals are natural, bioactive chemical compounds that have health-promoting, disease-preventing or medicinal properties. “Feeding your skin by topical application is a natural way to fight the everyday environmental elements—and, thus, free radical damage—so nutraceuticals are an essential part of the future of antiaging color cosmetics,” said Maureen Kelly, CEO and creator of tarte cosmetics.

For its Inside Out vitamin-infused lipsticks with Borba nutraceuticals, the company developed a gel-based outer core to deliver long-lasting pigment coverage and formed the inner core to contain the nutrients, according to Heather Ratushny, senior manager of product development.

“The patented component design allows for the highly functioning actives to actuate with a rich, high-shine gloss
to create a dramatic end result,” she explained. 

The concept of inner and outer beauty is not new. More ingestible ingredients from the nutraceutical market are moving into topical products every day.

“Nutraceuticals are becoming more important because not only are we using actives, we’re actually adding benefits via nutrients and botanicals that have been difficult to formulate with in the past,” said Wendy Chang, vice president of product development, Pantina.

Foundation for Change

Considering that approximately 40% of the market is in bases, foundations and powders, it’s no surprise that this category sees many breakthroughs. Fusing high-tech skin care with luxurious, high-end formulations, all of Hourglass Cosmetics’ face makeup is enhanced with skin complexes to protect and correct the skin. In August, the brand launched Oxygen Foundation Powder, which contains a unique oxygen-delivering agent to help promote skin’s health and allow the skin to breathe.

Brands also must take into consideration that products are no longer primarily sold in a department store environment. With the increasing popularity of alternative outlets, it’s essential that products stand out both on a shelf and online—and be sophisticated enough to address consumer demands for increased performance and wearability.

Smashbox is a brand having trouble keeping its products on shelves at Sephora and Ulta. Its High Definition Healthy FX Foundation—featuring natural, cell-energizing corn extract—is packed with antiaging ingredients, UVA/UVB SPF 15 and the antioxidant vitamin C. The unique, patented bio-delivery system provides time-released moisturization and firming benefits.

While not new to the professional skin care market, mineral makeup based on hypoallergenic loose powder that naturally nourishes and protects the skin is making a move to mass retailers. To help guide consumers, brands are offering detailed how-to tutorials directly inside the package or online. Market leader L’Oréal Paris has Bare Naturale mineral powder foundation with its natural SPF 19 and vitamins and minerals for the skin, along with True Match Foundation and Color Riche Star Secret,
to thank for double-digit growth this year.

Private label manufacturer Pantina also brought minerals to its custom-crafted cosmetics line in the spring with the Naturally Stunning Minerals Palette, which includes eye shadows, face illuminator and blush, conveniently packaged with instructions.
“The mineral makeup trend continues to be strong in cosmetics, from high-end to mass,” said Chang. The nanoparticle size positively affects dispersability, skin feel and transparency on the skin.

This winter, Pantina also jumped on the “primer” bandwagon—launching Even-Toned Foundation Primer, an advanced, water silicone formula not typically seen at the mass level.

Within color cosmetics, lip plumpers and multipurpose lip/eye/cheek products are said to be the main market drivers of the future.
Natural Swedish direct sales firm Oriflame recently launched two lip plumper and booster product ranges, capitalizing on the growing consumer trend for fuller pouts. The products, Beauty Gloss Booster and Beauty Gloss Power Shine, arrived on the market at a time when studies show that lip glosses and alternative products are driving the lip product category despite declined lipstick sales.

Among the latest offerings from big name brands, Revlon provides a lip-changing experience with Renewist Lipcolor, delivering SPF 15 along with its patent-pending ProCollagen Moisture Core.

From the spa sector, jane iredale launched Sugar&Butter, a lip duo that combines a natural exfoliator featuring beeswax and organic brown sugar with a tinted lip plumper of cool mint and ginger. The active ingredient is palmitoyl oligopeptide, the natural tripeptide Gly-His-Lys, which stimulates collagen synthesis and helps diminish lines.

Natural Goes Mainstream

As consumers increasingly adopt an ethical approach to their purchasing habits, companies across the board are working toward products that satisfy the growing demand. According to Organic Monitor, the international market for natural and organic cosmetics is expected to generate approximately $7 billion in sales in 2007, with Europe and the U.S. accounting for the lion’s share.

New research finds the major drivers of market growth are the mainstreaming of natural and organic cosmetics, inward investment and growing consumer demand for green products. Investment is coming primarily from retailers, especially in Europe, and large cosmetic manufacturers that are either acquiring dedicated natural and organic cosmetic companies or launching certified products.

Natural, organic and environmentally friendly products have carved out a stable and profitable niche in the cosmetics sector, but competition is intensifying as new brands contend with established players. The market opportunity is clear, but delivering on promises of natural and organic products in a highly critical marketplace isn’t always easy, especially without clear definitions and regulations.

As traditional differences between natural food and beauty dissolve, the natural movement is establishing its place in the cosmetics industry.

Korean brand Skin Food, for example, offers a makeup range containing lemon, tea tree oil, soy beans, rice extract and honey. With today’s emphasis on botanical, natural and traditional, Skin Food gets an upper hand with its use of fruits, vegetables and grains and Korean herbs.

According to Mintel, more than 200 new introductions debuted in this category in the first half of 2007 alone, tapping into the 40% of consumers who say they prefer natural based makeup products.

For spring 2008, tarte is repositioning the brand in stores to help customers understand its main message: “Health Couture, one half fashion-forward packaging and the other half healthy, natural formulas and ingredients.”

In addition, tarte will continue to align itself with organizations such as the Sustainable Acai Project, as well as maintain partnerships with beauty brands from the skin care and wellness worlds, such as the cosmeceutical brand Borba.
Initiatives such as these showcase how the natural and organic market is aligning with the green movement, giving companies eco-friendly credentials through both partnerships and eco-friendly business practices.

“Science and nature will merge even more in the coming year, and we’ll be able to deliver more innovative products that are not only healthy but have cutting-edge technology,” said Kelly.

There are a lot of “me too” products in the industry, but the consumer is counting on all brands to push the standard beyond current offerings to provide the next breakthrough cosmetic.

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