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A New Slant Salon Hair Care

By: Karen A. Newman
Posted: August 29, 2008, from the September 2006 issue of GCI Magazine.
ThermaFuse CEO Van Stamey

ThermaFuse CEO Van Stamey

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As far back as the 1970s, his folks were concerned about the damage that heat styling was doing to customers’ hair. It is a challenge that researchers and formulators have worked on for some time. “Our chemist has always been looking for heat care technologies. He made the HeatSmart technology for us in 2003,” said Stamey.

Mark Ragan, Stamey’s friend since the seventh grade, joined the company after college and has been its chemist ever since. “We wanted something that would be beneficial to all the products,” said Ragan, who is technical director for Salon Dynamics, the company created to produce and distribute the ThermaFuse line. “Our wish was to show results at room temperature and with heat.”

HeatSmart Complex, a registered technology, combines silicone and wheat protein molecules with a number of other ingredients. “Tests show that when you increase the heat, the functions of these ingredients build on themselves by increasing the molecular weight and building viscosity,” said Ragan, who is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and a former chair of the Carolinas chapter. There are eight different ingredients in the complex, all geared toward protecting the hair.

Those ingredients include antioxidants from white tea and ceramides to help replenish the lipid bio layer. The caffeine in white tea also offers a benefit similar to green tea, aiding in microcirculation—which is good for the scalp. Quaternized silk amino acid is included to help hair hold in moisture, binding moisture to the hair. “We just tried for traditional protection plus better benefits against heat damage,” said Ragan. HeatSmart Complex is made in the ThermaFuse factory and is the first ingredient in nearly every product made there.

The handful of products that don’t contain HeatSmart Complex are treatment products that don’t need it or those with a chemistry that makes it difficult to incorporate. One of the newest ThermaFuse products, also created by Ragan, is 8-Elixer, a product Stamey said makes clarifying shampoo obsolete.