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Genomics—Advanced Tools to Combat Aging
By: Steve Herman
Posted: June 3, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.
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Ingredient supplier Sederma’s Matrixyl 3000 is perhaps the most widely recognized active supported by genomic data, after retinoic acid. It is a blend containing the ingredients palmitoyl-GHK and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.5 The palmitoyl part makes the molecule water-soluble, and the amino acid chain triggers biological activity such as stimulating collagen synthesis.
P&G has assembled a collection of papers in Genomics of Skin Aging: Practical Applications,6 and many of the featured materials have antiaging properties established with gene-expression data.
Nu Skin has a line utilizing salicin as a key ingredient. This active is in willow bark extract,7 and is an anti-inflammatory chemical closely related to aspirin. Initial data on salicin was established for internal use, but further studies showed it to be effective on skin.
Note that up and down regulation of various genes is necessary for effective skin treatment—for example, down regulation of collagen degradation and melanin production, up regulation of hydration and cell turnover. Nu Skin has identified a “Youth Gene Cluster” as critical to the maintenance of skin and targets a number of genes for skin structure, pigment, cell turnover and hydration.
Another commercial example, Elina’s Bioenergetic Ambra-Lift Skin Elixir uses an ingredient to show increased expression of sirtuin-1 (proteins to prolong cell longevity), which in turn activated expression of specific collagens, keratins and matrix genes. Activity was also established regarding antioxidant and anti-inflammatory genes.8