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Launches at in-cosmetics 2013, New Research and Production, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Late April 2013

Posted: April 29, 2013

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Beauty Creations, the cosmetic active ingredient business of BASF, is now offering Shadownyl, a potent brown seaweed extract to combat the formation of wrinkles and dark circles around the eyes for a fully refreshed and enlightened eye contour. Shadownyl is a water extract of Fucus vesiculosus, which utilizes a novel biological pathway an enzyme involved in the reduction of free heme content in the skin, a major cause of dark circle formation. The ingredient also has been shown to exhibit antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, helping to preserve the skin cells and possibly also contribute to counteract the dark circle formation process. BASF also displayed its range of consumer-driven concepts and high-performance ingredients for all kinds of personal care applications, and unveiled the second level of the Care Creations brand roll-out—launching the formulation concept “Cosmetics for real life,” which studies, explores and develops based on consumers’ daily needs—at in-cosmetics 2013. Luviset One was among the new products on display, an all-in-one solution for hair styling gels, creams and waxes that delivers strong styling performance, long-lasting curl retention and provides a smooth, crystal-clear gel base. BASF also showcased PVP (Polyvinyl-pyrrolidone) Luviskol K 30 Super, which offers improved color and shows better viscosity behavior in styling gels compared to standard quality. The company also launched the broad-spectrum UV filter Tinosorb A2B, which provides protection from UVB and UVAII wavelengths from 290 through to 340 nm. Beauty Creations introduced the plant-based Freshaxyl, a natural efficient anti-odor active for the growing deo market. It is a synergistic blend of moringa polypeptide extract and plant-based glyceryl laurate, which acts at two essential levels to help dramatically reduce bodily odors, and BASF also presented Chione HD, a new effect pigments respond perfectly to the “nude look” trend, which continues to drive demand for cosmetics that give the skin a natural but radiant complexion. Formulated into BB creams or skin care serums, Chione HD pearls achieve brightness and correct imperfections effectively.

Dow Corning introduced its Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid, a new benefits-rich water-in-oil silicone emulsifier, at in-cosmetics. Developed to give product developers flexibility and choice, this technology delivers advanced aesthetics and performance for liquid and cream foundation and sunscreen while maintaining the high stability needed to avoid ingredient separation. The Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid provides excellent oil phase flexibility that can enhance the formulation stability of emulsions, even when a wide variety of ingredients and different ratios of cosmetic oils are incorporated. Additionally, this new low-odor material enables the development of highly stable emulsions while keeping viscosity low and provides a light feel with low tackiness for improved sensory performance. It also helps pigment dispersion for optimal foundation coverage. Dow Corning also announced two new skin care programs for sun protection and skin brightening at in-cosmetics. The programs feature the company’s range of specialty silicone products and silicone-based formulations. As part of Dow Corning’s new sun protection program, the company announced that its sun protection specialty silicone products have been extensively and rigorously retested to address customer requirements for performance validation. Dow Corning also addressed hair care with two new programs for hair shine and hair repair. The company’s new Hair Shine program addresses two major macro trends: consumers’ desire to reverse the effects of aging and their preference for a healthy look and feel.

Crodarom, a French subsidiary of Croda, introduced a flower extract from Asia that contributes to an illuminated complexion. Crodarom Porcelain Flower has soothing, antioxidant and moisturizing benefits. The flower is grown in Asia, where it has been used in traditional Chinese medicine as an anti-inflammatory. Its leaves have been used on wounds and burns, and the whole plant has been used to treat skin irritation and insect bites. The ingredient is made from the flowers of Hoya lacunosa, which are grown on a farm specialized in the cultivation of hoyas, and the choice of the supplier and the certified origin enable the development of a responsible supply chain, ensuring the sustainability of the species and protect the biodiversity. In beauty products, the extract can be used in illuminating skin care or makeup with illuminating benefits such as BB creams.

Also at in-cosmetics 2013, Bayer MaterialScience introduced raw material solutions for effective yet gentle hair care and styling, based on its Baycusan line. These raw materials are used for manufacturing “leave-in” products. Conditioning products formulated with Baycusan C 1008 waterborne polyurethane dispersions give hair increased elastic and natural hold, repair split ends, protect hair against heat, and significantly enhance shine. It also offers anti-frizz properties, which last for up to 24 hours, A sister product, Baycusan C 1001 dispersion is designed for formulating highly effective conditioning products that give hair a natural shine and healthy appearance. With it, unruly hair is easier to comb and has a flexible feel. A comb or brush glides much more smoothly through the hair treated with these products than hair treated with conventional conditioners based on acrylate copolymers.

Evonik introduced Tego Carbomer 841 SER, a novel cross-linked polyacrylic acid copolymer designed to control the rheology of surfactant systems, especially for very mild formulations based on sulfate- and/or PEG-free surfactants. This copolymer provides synergistic thickening in combination with electrolytes NaCl. It can be used for various personal cleansing systems and it provides excellent clarity in shampoos or body washes.

Dow launched EcoSense 3000 Surfactant at in-cosmetics 2013, an addition to Dow’s alkyl polyglucosides portfolio that offers product developers a readily biodegradable surfactant for use in shampoos and body washes. The EcoSense family of products is based on coconut and palm oils, contains no added sulfates or preservatives, and offers excellent foaming and mildness in formulations.

Developed in line with Clariant’s new Secret Code of Beauty concept, the company featured four new ingredients at in-cosmetics 2032. Aristoflex Velvet adds a soft, velvety skin feel to skin care formulations. A finalist in this year’s Cosmetics & Toiletries Innovation Award, the new member of Clariant’s versatile Aristoflex polymer product line is an answer to the trend toward luxury, providing a true sensorial experience. It is easy to use and brings unique benefits to a wide range of applications. The Plantasens natural ingredient range, recently acquired from CRM International, includes plant-based actives, unique emulsifiers and a broad selection of emollients ranging from vegetable oils and natural butters to alternatives to silicones, petrolatum and lanolin. Most Plantasens products are also Ecocert approved. Perlogen creates the sparkle in beauty formulations, a cold processable, liquid pearlizing concentrate for rinse-off products that creates an intensive silky shine in shampoos, liquid hand soaps, nourishing conditioners and moisturizing washes. Its well-defined particle size helps achieve high brilliance of pearlescent performance and an excellent pearlizing effect at low concentrations. And Genagen SC blends are cold processable and offer excellent foam building. The two grades of easy to use blends are based on a unique and patented technology to upgrade a broad variety of formulations. They improve opacifier stability and shorten production time.

Micro Powders, Inc. introduced three new products. MicroSorb 944S is a micronized combination of high molecular weight polyethylene and calcium silicate designed to provide maximum oil absorption while delivering a smooth silky and luxurious feel to pressed and loose powders. MicroSpersion 684S-XF utilizes the combination of the extra fine particle size and spherical shape of its Microslip 684S, and MicroCare 710 is a finely micronized combination of polyethylene, carnauba wax and PTFE to promote the adhesion of cosmetic formulations to the skin.

AAK Personal Care extended its Lipex line of shea-based functional emollients with an eco-designed ester called Lipex SheaLight. The general-purpose emollient can be used in a wide range of cosmetics. In response to the global trend toward making skin care products lighter, particularly body lotions and facial care products, the new ester targets beauty brands that want to develop safe, stable formulations combining light, dry sensorial properties with a better sustainability profile. The ester can be used alone or in combination with other esters, vegetable oils, shea butters, silicone oils and synthetic emollients when formulating everyday skin care products.

At in-cosmetics 2013, AkzoNobel Global Personal Care showcased products and technologies that support the company’s commitment to sustainability. These included its BioStyle CGP, a fixative styling polymer that combines synthetic performance and sustainable technology in a single ingredient; the naturally derived Structure Style polymer, a non-GMO starch-based, film former and rheology modifier, the 100% natural Amaze XT styling polymer, a multifunctional fixative and thickening/suspending agent; the biodegradable ArmoCare VGH-70, a vegetable-based di-ester quaternary developed to meet the needs required of an exceptional hair conditioning active; Dry-Flo TS, a non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified tapioca starch used to enhance the aesthetics of skin care products; and naturally derived Structure Cel polymers, a family of cellulose derivatives that can be used in a variety of personal care systems and products.

Mibelle Biochemistry released PhytoCellTec Symphytum at in-cosmetics. The ingredient has been shown to boost the regenerative power of epidermal stem cells and their ability to build new tissue, and it can be used in skin care formulations to recharge the youthfulness of skin stem cells, boost cell turnover to both fortify and plump skin, and reveal fresher, smoother skin. PhytoCellTec Symphytum is based on stem cells from comfrey, which is an old medicinal plant known for its healing properties.

Another launch at in-cosmetics 2013, Silab debuted CellDetox, a purified α-glucan active ingredient, obtained by biotechnology process, that detoxifies cells by removing altered cell components and guarantees cell and tissue longevity and blocks the accumulation of lipofuscin aggregates, a true marker of aging. Helping to smooth skin, renew radiance and even tone, CellDetox is recommended for regenerating, detoxifying and anti-aging skin care products. Silab also launched ApolluSkin at in-cosmetics. The ingredient is a protective antipollution active principle derived from dandelion, a plant known for its detoxifying properties. By reducing the activation of the aryl-hydrocarbon receptor, which propagates the damaging effects of pollution, fructan-rich ApolluSkin limits the inflammation and oxidative stress responsible for skin aging, improving the skin’s complexion. It is recommended for daily skin care products. Also at in-cosmetics, Silab released an ingredient designed to protect sensitive scalps from irritation induced by outside aggressors. Capicalm contains purified fumitory glycans that protect a sensitive scalp from the environmental aggressors, hair dyes and hair treatments that can lead to chronic irritation.

Merck presented new effect pigments and formulation ideas at in-cosmetics. Its Colorona SynBerry Pink is the highlight of the new pigments based on synthetic mica. This color-intensive, fuchsia-red pearl-luster pigment with its clear, brilliant masstone can be incorporated into all cosmetic formulations and, in particular, it adds an elegant finishing touch to decorative cosmetics for the eyes and lips. Also, Ronastar Diamond Black was presented at in-cosmetics, showcasing the deep, virtually black color and a unique luster that can be used in all cosmetic products, in particular in decorative cosmetics such as mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow and nail polish. And Ronastar Copper Jewel is a vibrant, copper-colored effect pigment that is characterized by brilliant luster and good coverage. The substrate is based on glass flakes and can be used in all cosmetic formulations. Additionally, as active ingredients that prevent acne or neutralize free radicals on the skin are increasingly in demand, Merck released RonaCare AP to address this. In a current study, it proved to be an effective agent for acne prevention while protecting against skin damage caused by a high individual level of radicals.

Symrise presented natural and sustainable actives for skin and hair from microalgae at the 2013 in-cosmetics. For new launches, in collaboration with Cutech, Symrise identified marine water microalgae as an excellent source for new cosmetic actives and introduced SymHair Force 1631 to help fight hair loss and improve hair density, and SymBronze 1659, a natural biological tanner derived from microalgae. Working from the inside, it provides a natural, sunless tan, accelerates the natural tanning process under sun exposure and prolongs the tan.

Also a the 2013 in-cosmetics, Wacker debuted BelSil Reg 1100, a silicone resin elastomer gel that produces long-lasting effects in beauty products and leaves the skin feeling pleasant and silky soft, and BelSil ADM 6102 E, a silicone emulsion and highly effective hair conditioning agent that allows product developers to create products that make hair soft and pleasantly supple. BelSil Reg 1100 works to make cosmetic formulations more water- and transfer-resistant, thus providing long-wear benefits. The product helps to make lipsticks more kiss-proof, to prevent makeup from rubbing off on clothing, and to reduce the negative impact that water has on the protective effects of sunscreens. It also makes moisturizers and night creams particularly rich, allowing their nourishing effects and excellent skin-feel properties to last a long time. Additionally, BelSil ADM 6102 E adheres well to the surface of the hair, does not crosslink and makes hair easy to comb while providing excellent softness. The slightly acidic, milky white silicone emulsion is suitable for conditioning shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, hair treatments, masks, two-phase pump sprays and as a conditioning additive in hair dyes.