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Integrating Science and Nature

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: October 14, 2008, from the June 2006 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Many of today’s finished products and treatments in the body and spa market continue to be based on a combination of natural sources and hard science. Estée Lauder’s Body Performance Slim Shape Anti-Cellulite/Anti-Fluid Advanced Visible Contouring Serum is designed to minimize the appearance of cellulite while providing a sleeker, more contoured look to skin and optimizing the skin’s natural flow of fluids.

Daniel Maes, vice president, research and development, The Estée Lauder Company, discovered that fluid accumulation is a significant contributing factor in skin’s puffy appearance. The discovery led to the development of FluidMotion™ Technology, which, according to the company, makes the skin appear sleeker and optimizes the flow of fluids. Any energy that is not used by the body causes the adipocytes to swell to two or three times their original size. This energy loss leads to a slowing down of the synthesis of collagen and elastin, which results in decreased levels of collagen and weakening of the dermis, allowing the fat cells to push toward the skin’s surface to create the orange-peel look. When the fat cells clump together, they cause natural drainage to be diminished.

Ingredients include siegesbeckia—known from traditional Chinese medicine to reduce collagen degradation, and vitamin C to boost collagen production and strengthen the skin. Forskolin, a plant extract from India, helps skin optimize its naturally existing energy for a smoother look. Brazilian guarana seeds and Chinese black tea work with the skin’s natural enzymes so skin looks more contoured, and Thermogenic Complex, which contains creatine and carnitine, are said to ignite the skin’s energy to help it work at its peak. Conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), derived from safflower extract, combined with a bio-peptide help to smooth and firm and to minimize the visible effect of trapped water. Ximenynic Acid and Eyeliss™, a bio-peptide, helps improve the puffy appearance, and sweet almond extract, a lifting polymer, helps tone the skin Profil Minceur Non-Stop Release Contouring Gel is YSL Beauté’s newest addition to its Total Fitness line. The product targets the anti-cellulite body category. Encapsulated Lipo-Fitness II contains Lipo-GHK (an exclusive YSL Beauté-patented ingredient), bio-factors and caffeine. The formulation also features a dermo-firming complex.

Sloughing, Polishing, Moisturizing

Since sloughing, exfoliating and moisturizing are primary steps in the spa experience—essentially paving the way for massage, toning or contouring—these steps are included in every regimen.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc. provides a number of spa and bath ingredients that work to exfoliate the skin and increase moisture. Liposilt® is a bio-active silt, rich in organic components and appropriate for body wraps, skin cleansing, spa products and moisturizing creams and lotions. Derived from two fresh water lakes of Eastern Europe, Liposilt Green and Liposilt Black both contain humic acid, nitrogen and fatty acids, and more than 90% organic matter. Liposilt Black is said to improve the surface characteristics of skin, create a more even skin tone, reduce sebum content and increase moisture levels.