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High Def, High Tech

By: Sara Mason
Posted: April 6, 2010, from the April 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Having customized makeup that minimizes pores and covers thoroughly without being obvious is key. To that end, DermaMinerals’ Sam Dhatt, cosmetic scientist and company founder, claims combining the benefits of a mineral cosmetic in a liquid foundation will be the next hot trend in cosmetics. The new line’s Breathable Coverage Mineral Foundation SPF 30, for example, not only provides great coverage but it works as a barrier or bandage between skin and the elements. Antioxidants, peptides and other performance ingredients work together to improve the skin’s tone and texture while protecting against free-radical damage. The product capitalizes on the popularity of back to basics mineral makeup in a tried and true format. “Consumers want healthier, better quality alternative cosmetics that benefit their skin rather than cause their skin to break out or be irritated,” said Dhatt. With brands such as DermaMinerals, the goal is to enhance the beauty rather than covering it up, something that resonates with today’s consumers.

Trying to meet multiple demands from a supplier perspective, functional fillers from ingredient suppliers such as Cospheric’s microspheres provide a perfect appearance by both filling fine lines and scattering light to hide imperfections. Red, green, blue, yellow or even multicolor microspheres make a product that is functional as well as adding a hint of color, sparkle or even a color-change effect.

Arch Personal Care has a similar invisible correction effect with its ChronoSphere Opticals that blend with skin’s natural pigments. The clear particles allow light to transfer through makeup giving the appearance of depth and dimension to skin, a must-have with the rapid spread of high-def technology that draws attention to minor details. And the patented light-controlling microlens technology manipulates skin’s natural pigments—collagen, hemoglobin and melanin. The clear coating lacks opacifying properties, making the particle adaptable to every skin type, without causing a whitening or ashy appearance. “As always, our marketing team looks at various industries beyond cosmetics as a target focus for our future products,” said Dana Smith, technical marketing manager, Arch. “Regulatory trends drive opportunistic offerings, while new technology drives our innovative offerings.” With the launch of ChronoSphere Opticals, the company was focused on trends addressing the diverse demographic of multiple phenotypes.

Such customization continues to be a big trend. “Consumers want color cosmetics that take the guess work out of finding the perfect shades for their skin,” explained Smith. Products with customizable coverage and the ability to self-adjust will be crucial to brand success moving forward.

Interference pearl pigments have been widely known as ingredients in foundations that enable effective, yet discreet skin tone correction. However, interference pigments usually reflect light in a way that adds luster to the skin—an effect not always desired when applying a facial liquid or powder foundation.