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Highly Concentrated, Low-dose Fragrance Solutions
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured
Posted: January 17, 2013
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In a glass cleaner product, Whiteley explains, perfumers using the Ecoboost technology will face no impact on formulation whatsoever. All-purpose cleaners, on the other hand, often have a level of active ingredient in formulation for cleaning and stability. By creating formulas requiring 10 times lower dosage, product developers can conceivably reduce the level of active ingredients by 30% in the base formulation with no impact on performance, says Whiteley.
Fragrance Formulation and Transferability
Creating highly concentrated formulas can be achieved a number of ways. Because dilution impacts odor perception, in some cases materials may be overdosed, resulting in vastly different odors pre- and post-dilution. Sometimes, the odor of the undiluted scent will even be unpleasant, revealing its true nature only when diluted. And so, says Whiteley, perfumers working with the Ecoboost technology will focus on the character of the end dilution, not the “neat” formula. In addition, perfumers will employ unusual materials, including malodor molecules, flavor ingredients, mercaptans, etc.
Conventional fragrances typically have a solvent content of 10–15% percent or higher, notes Whiteley, but some solvents have to be category specific—for instance candle solvents differ from shampoo solvents. With a high-impact fragrance technology, formulators have greater cross-acceptability among categories. Scent formulas for candles and hair gels, for example, can be identical or nearly so.
“This is a new creative process,” says Whiteley of these high-impact fragrances. “It’s developing new fragrances for [customers] rather than giving them a modified version of something they already have.” Customers often ask if existing scents can be converted to high-impact versions, which is difficult, says Whiteley, “because you have a much different way of putting the fragrance together.”
“In many instances existing scents cannot be reverse engineered,” he continues. “The creation process is quite a bit different, not a modification of something that exists, so you start over.”
But in pursuing cost, stability, labeling and other objectives, beauty brand owners may find the inconvenience worth the development time.