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The Lessons of Pro Care and Related Markets: Following Trends Straight to Retail Success

By: Imogen Matthews
Posted: March 7, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Marketed within L’Oréal’s active cosmetics division, SkinCeuticals’ focus is on promoting skin health through prevention, protection and correction. The brand is said to be one of the first to provide scientific evidence to support product benefits by publishing clinical studies in medical journals usually reserved for pharmaceutical research.

Doskow believes that SkinCeuticals is a prime example of a brand that has incorporated new technologies from the professional sector. For example, Sheer Physical UV, launched at the end of 2009, incorporates Z-Cote transparent zinc oxide and encapsulated octinoxate, which are two innovative technologies used to create a light texture using only physical filters, making it suitable for sensitive skin.

Likewise, current trends in anti-aging hair care can also be traced to the professional salon sector—with L’Oréal and Schwarzkopf at the forefront of innovation through their professional hair care divisions. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Kérastase Age Premium is an anti-aging hair care range aimed at women over 60 whose hair has become thinner, dry and dull due to hormonal changes. L’Oréal claims this is the first time that hyaluronic acid has been incorporated into a hair product for its ability to rebalance and hydrate the scalp. Well known in both pro and retail skin care, hyaluronic acid is used in injectable wrinkle fillers, notably Restylane, and in skin moisturizing products for its ability to plump tissues. The Kérastase Age Premium range also includes the proprietary pro-supplenium system—based on a calcium derivative, vitamin F and ceramide, which claims to reinforce the hair fiber and protect it from UV rays and free radicals.

Anti-aging hair technology has been used in Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Bonacure Hairtherapy Time Restore Q10 Plus range. It incorporates a high concentration of co-enzyme Q10 to stimulate the roots to activate the production of keratin. The company’s amino cell rebuild technology claims to strengthen the architecture inside the hair cell and seal the hair cuticle, creating more resilience.

From Well-being to Beauty Within

Nutricosmetics, which straddles the health and beauty sectors, is booming in Asia, but has been slow in gaining acceptance in Western markets. In his trends presentation at the 2010 In-cosmetics event, Leonidas Dokas, industry analyst, Frost & Sullivan, explained that the “beauty from within” concept, or nutricosmetics, has been gaining ground because of the aging population, which has concerns about health and quality of life.