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Natural Antiaging

By: Abby Penning
Posted: November 5, 2010, from the November 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

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“By customer demand, we also have developed a blend of grape seed extract and green tea extract in glycerin,” says Delisle, noting the level of popularity of grape seed and grape-infused products, likely due to reports of grape’s natural benefits. “Everybody knows that red wine is beneficial to your health due to the high levels of resveratrol (polyphenols) in red wine. We are now seeing this incorporated into cosmetics. The phytochemically rich muscadine grape has a higher level of total antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties than any other type of grape. Many of the phytonutrients present in the muscadine grape have been recognized as powerful antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents,” that are used in today’s cosmetic formulations, Delisle notes. The label-friendliness of these natural ingredients also has consumers more trusting of these products, in addition to their benefits.

Where Antiaging is Being Incorporated

Toward broadening the appeal and marketing significance of antiaging, innovation in the segment isn’t limited to facial products. Kovats says, “Just about all categories of the personal care market now benefit from antiaging ingredients. The primary ones are still facial treatments and eye treatments, but markets such as body care and color cosmetics are now using actives to a greater degree, and will probably continue this trend.”

Today’s savvy shoppers are looking for multifunctional products, and incorporating antiaging benefits is often a quality way to offer consumers that something extra. “For color cosmetics to have antiaging actives allows the consumer to treat wrinkles, dark circles, etc. 24/7,” Kovats says.

“The spectrum of antiaging opportunity seems to be much broader for skin care products because preventive maintenance is such a major theme these days,” says Einhorn. “Take UV protection: It not only encompasses sunscreens, but also extends to facial lotions, liquid cosmetics and face powders. Producers recognize the need consumers have for UV-protective benefits in their skin care products, and as a result, are now regularly incorporating zinc oxides, titanium oxides and benzophenones.” The antiaging benefits of UV protection also factor into an innumerable amount of products, urging sun care and antiaging often into the same category of care.

The delivery of these beneficial ingredients is an important factor in offering antiaging elements, as well. “I view ingredients as a delivery system through the skin,” says Tzeira Sofer, founder of Pomega5. “That’s what I keep learning and understanding—that the skin is just another way of feeding our bodies. So whether you apply to the delicate skin under your eyes or on your chapped lips, it doesn’t matter. It’s about the technology that is serving the skin as a delivery system and those micronutrients that are absorbed by the body and benefit the different locations and different skin types.” As an example, Sofer explains, “We use orchid extract and essential oil and colloidal minerals for the eyes because of the specific delicate skin there and the tendency for fluid retention and darkness. The neck or hands have much sturdier skin that requires a higher concentration of essential fatty acids and can take a higher concentration of rich oils and antioxidants such as verbena and citruses that cannot be applied under the eyes. The philosophy is the same, but what you combine them with and how you make a finished product—that is different.” Knowing the benefits of specific natural antiaging ingredients, as well as their strengths and weaknesses in terms of application and use, can be the difference between a successful product and a failure.

Marketing Antiaging Ingredients, Innovations