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Anti-wrinkle Skin Care

By: Eric S. Abrutyn
Posted: August 23, 2011, from the September 2011 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Many ingredients claim to improve the appearance of or to treat and repair wrinkles. The current trend is to develop natural botanical ingredients and polypeptides that provide antiaging properties at low and effective levels. It would be difficult to list all the possible natural ingredients that claim some type of antiaging effect without missing some, so one may generalize by simply stating that crucial to an antiaging treatment is the delivery of a natural or synthetic ingredient that provides the following key properties: antioxidation to counteract free radical formation; anti-inflammation to calm the skin and reduce irritation; exfoliation through raw materials such as alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA); sun protection, specifically through sunscreen agents that absorb or block UVA; skin softening, to support the elasticity and/or firming of skin; and pore- and crease-filling capabilities, so that particles fit within skin crevices and appear as a part of the skin.

Featured Ingredient: Antioxidants

Antioxidants are a popular antiwrinkle treatment category. They can be derived from natural sources or synthetically manufactured. Their key performance criterion is to counteract free radicals that can mutate skin cells. Sources of these free radicals are environmental, such as smoke, sun exposure or diet. Use of antioxidants can mitigate skin damage to allow for healing, as well as stimulate new collagen production.

Antioxidants can be delivered as water-soluble or oil-soluble ingredients, although oil- or lipid-soluble derivatives can absorb more effectively into the stratum corneum. Antioxidants can assist in several capacities, including: reducing fine lines and wrinkles, supporting cell regeneration, evening out skin pigmentation, mitigating psoriasis effects, supporting a healthy immune system and stimulating collagen production.

Antioxidants can include vitamins such as retinol and esters, ascorbic acid and esters, tocopherol and esters and cholecalcipherol, amino acids/ peptides such as acetyl hexapeptide-22 and decapeptide-6, botanical extracts, and carboxylic acids among a multitude of others.

Finished Antiaging Products

There are many current anti-wrinkle products on the market. The following three are featured to demonstrate claim positioning as well as how specific ingredients are incorporated to support these claims. The information presented is taken from publicly available sources and is included for illustrative purposes only.