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The Importance of Efficacy in Cosmeceutical Beauty

By: Abby Penning
Posted: November 1, 2011, from the November 2011 issue of GCI Magazine.

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DSM’s senior new business development manager, personal care, Eric Lippay also notes, “Everyone knows the baby boomers present a significant target market that is displaying signs of aging, and they want to do something about it. This combined with the creation of more efficacious ingredients enabled by genomics and other advances has been a strong driver [of the cosmeceutical segment].

The scope of the demographics is definitely changing as an understanding of the components of what makes a person appear older is changing as well. An example is keeping young skin young versus fixing signs of aging after they appear.”

Consequently, it’s becoming more and more clear that baby boomers aren’t the only consumers seeking cosmeceutical solutions. “I have never been more inundated by younger clientele—17- to 20-year-olds—looking for clear, ageless skin,” says Scott-Vincent Borba, founder of Borba Skin Care. “They want to take care of it now.” And with the proliferation of information now available on skin care products and their ingredients, paired with the Internet savvy of the younger generation seeking to stave off signs of aging earlier and earlier, cosmeceutical consumers today are coming in all sizes and age ranges.

“I attribute much of the boom of the cosmeceutical market to the rise of a far more knowledgeable and savvier consumer,” says Laura Verallo de Bertotto, CEO of VMV Hypoallergenics. “In our own experience, we’ve seen an increase in the complexity of questions that we get asked by our customers. They know so much more about ingredients and how claims are validated than even just a few years ago. More consumers are seeing dermatologists. They’re looking for performance. It’s no longer enough to promise results: Consumers are demanding proof and have a lower tolerance for products that don’t deliver what they say they do. I believe this is due, in part, to the [ability of consumers to find answers to questions online] that may have been more difficult to find in the past, as well as the power of word-of-mouth—which, online, can reach millions of people around the world in seconds.”

Innovations and Developments

Ongoing growth in cosmeceuticals also sees major contributions from continuing innovation. “[New product development] is always driven by an unmet consumer need,” Gempeler says, and these needs can range from a product the focuses on a particular part of the face or body, to one that features more sensitive ingredients.