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Delivering on Antiaging Potential

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: October 10, 2008, from the January 2006 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 2 of 5

As there are many systems, delivery of actives can be tailored to particular formulations to optimize functionality and stability.

Demand and Delivery

Savvy customers are aware of ingredient breakthroughs, and support the popularity of skin care preparations, especially those offering efficacy and aesthetics.

According to Johann Wiechers, principle scientist and skin care R&D manager, Uniqema Personal Care,

“When we talk about reversing the effects of aging on human skin, it becomes necessary to talk about the delivery capabilities of formulations at or very near the beginning of the conversation. In a word, formulating for efficacy is key to the success of any antiaging formula. A great number of active ingredients have been shown to be beneficial in antiaging formulations, but relatively few ever reach the market because formulators often cannot find a delivery mechanism that positions the right active (and not an inactive metabolite for instance) in the right location, at the right concentration, for the right period of time.”

Active ingredients often are abandoned if, after stability and clinical testing, no efficacy is shown in finished formulations. Wiechers says emulsion systems and emollients within formulas profoundly influence the efficacy to deliver the active from the formulation. Uniqema created the Relative Polarity Index (RPI) to help find optimal formulation conditions, and Wiechers says it is a novel way to custom-design the proper emollient system in conjunction with specific actives in order to make the active more efficient.