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Delivering on Antiaging Potential
By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: October 10, 2008, from the January 2006 issue of GCI Magazine.
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Improvement in delivery efficiency has profound implications for the personal care industry, and marketers can differentiate their products from others if their effectiveness is shown to be an improvement over historical formulations. “Another option, given the improvement in delivery efficiency, is to include less of an expensive active in a product reformulated for a lower price point without loss of efficacy, opening up new markets,” says Wiechers. “Another may be to reconsider the use of actives previously believed to be ‘undeliverable’ in skin care formulas.” In cases where the active ingredient is a small molecule with a hydrophilic profile, the company offers an adjuvant currently used in acne formulas which has a potential use in antiaging formulas to deliver antioxidants.
From the Lab
Arch Personal Care has developed a patent-pending method to encapsulate sensitive or labile bioactive skin care ingredients within a modified polyglucose matrix. “This method of encapsulation protects the sensitive ingredients during vigorous heating slowing both water-soluble and lipid-soluble active components to be prepared as anhydrous powders,” says Vince Gruber, Ph.D., director of research and market development, Arch Personal Care. “The unique modified polyglucose entraps the bioactive ingredients in a spiral-shaped cage, which acts somewhat like a spring, wrapping itself around the actives and holding them in the interior of the cage until release.”
As Gruber explains, the encapsulating polyglucose also helps bind moisture through extensive hydrogen bonding that can provide enhanced moisturizing benefits to anhydrous skin care formulations. The skin’s natural moisture causes the modified polyglucose to slowly uncoil and act as a time-release device that delivers the active ingredients to the skin. In lip care products, the encapsulant is particularly effective as the food-grade polysaccharide polymer is digested partially by the enzymes of the mouth, further enhancing release of the actives. After the polyglucose completes its time-release function, the functional encapsulant continues to hydrate the skin, providing increased moisturization to improve texture, tone and feel.
Salvona Technologies, Inc., offers a number of platforms to deliver antiaging actives onto the skin and hair and provide their release. They are said to improve the stability and efficacy of actives, reduce irritation and assist in formulating actives into conventional skin or hair care products. One such platform, with biodegradable solid hydrophobic nanospheres in the form of an aqueous dispersion, delivers a range of ingredients onto skin, hair and hair follicles, enhancing its efficacy and prolonging their release over an extended time period. Due to their lipophilic nature and small particle size, they are able to deliver actives into the deeper layers of the skin in a controlled manner and enhance their bioavailability and efficacy. “The nanospheres are loaded with the active, and can adhere to the skin, scalp and hair and sustain the release of the active for more than six hours,” said Sam Shefer, executive vice president. “The slow release of the functional ingredients allows the cells to incorporate the active within the physiological process, without leaving signs of irritation on the skin. Since they are composed of natural biodegradable materials, they are a safe and functional delivery system.”
Another technology from Salvona provides controlled delivery of multiple actives. “The multicomponent nanotechnology allows delivery of multiple actives that normally don’t mix well, and releases them in a consecutive manner, opening fields in product development for multiple actives,” Shefer adds.