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Healthy, Colorful Beauty

By: Sara Mason
Posted: December 7, 2009, from the December 2009 issue of GCI Magazine.

DermaQuest’s DermaMinerals features dermaxyl peptide to minimize the appearance of fine lines, and reflective and light-scattering mica-wrapped cotton fibers and boron nitride to help restore the skin’s luminosity.

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“We cannot stop aging, but let’s be okay with that; be real,” says Sue Devitt, founder, Sue Devitt Beauty. “If you look like you take care of yourself and are confident, that’s sexy.” She hopes to help change the perception of beauty in that sense with a healthy focus on projuvenation in her mineral makeup line.

The key is moisturization. Without hydrating elements, powder will inevitably dry out the skin, a common problem for traditional mineral-based cosmetics. Sue Devitt Beauty’s Hydrating Marine Minerals feature SpaComplexion, a combination of hydrating ingredients that includes the brand’s signature Microquatic complex. The fundamental ingredient is the hyaluronic acid, which helps the skin absorb water continuously from the air and restore natural elasticity throughout its wearing. The brand’s products contain other antiaging benefits, such as ceramides to kick-start collagen production, and marine elements designed to heal and nurture skin. Normally, during the manufacturing process, the moisture is pressed out of the powder. By addressing issues of dryness and premature aging, the brand is focusing less on special effects and more on product development. “The combination of ingredients is what makes these products innovative and effective,” says Devitt. The SpaComplexion line, launched in spring 2009, includes tinted moisturizer, pressed and loose powder and several eye palettes in rich colors. “You don’t need to trade off fashionable colors to have a natural mineral product at your fingertips,” adds Devitt.

In response to the increasing popularity of wrinkle fillers such as hyaluronic acid, Cognis Care Chemicals and its active ingredients business Laboratoires Sérobiologiques presented Hyalurosmooth, a botanical alternative to hyaluronic acid at In-cosmetics. It is made of polysaccharides extracted from the seed of an Indian plant, Cassia angustifolia, which forms a protective film on the skin that strongly binds water and fills in fine lines. It provides, according to the company, intense moisturization while plumping up the skin, which further helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and to smooth the skin’s surface. As a result of the smoother surface, light reflection is also improved, leading to increased skin radiance.

Advanced Technologies

To combine high-tech with natural, Yves Rocher coats pigments and loose pearls with botanical ingredients in the formulation process, so that what touches the skin is from a botanical source and brings an added performance. The Couleurs Nature makeup line mixes minerals with virgin sweet almond oil from organic farming during the formulation process. “These materials simply merge with the skin,” explains Judith Flateau, director of makeup for Yves Rocher. The line’s Flawless Finish Fluid Foundation contains natural mineral pigments that are coated with a botanical soybean extract (phospholipids), ensuring that the foundation stays put. The brand is working with pigment suppliers and will launch a new innovation of coating in foundations in 2010, according to Flateau.

Innovation leads to choice—not only for the consumer, but for the marketer as well. One of the standout products on display at In-cosmetics was Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd’s Magic, an antiwrinkle eye cream shadow formulation with stable actives, color and fragrances. Tagra created the three-in-one formulation to demonstrate the power of its release-on-demand microencapsulated technology, which is engineered to protect and stabilize active ingredients—including natural and essential oils. Tagra announced that these pigments can be conveniently added to makeup products to fine-tune the coloring and even create products that are one color in storage and another once applied. Tints and sheer radiance foundations, active eye shadow and healthy skin application blush are only a few of the unlimited multi-functional possibilities for color cosmetics. The innovation of the technology is friction-release—not time-released—through consumer application.

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