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Unique Naturals by Design

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: October 13, 2008, from the April 2006 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Pomarose, a rich fruity note, reminiscent of rose and apple pie, meets the gourmand trend of comforting scents from the food world. Cosmone, a musky note gives an elegant touch to numerous accords. It’s a biodegradable molecule that along with Nirvanolide, enlarges Givaudan’s range of environmentally friendly macrocyclic musks. Also introduced were Serenolide, a white musk with sweet, fruity connotations, for warm and velvety notes that blend with fruity accords, and Safraleine, for spicy saffron freshness, to fit fine fragrance’s demand for spicy smells.

Science continues to impact a market that, according to Euromonitor, benefited from the 2005 Christmas season with celebrity and designer fragrances impacting sales. A growth in fragrance sales of 3% improved on the 2% growth rate recorded in 2004. Premium women’s fragrances took the lead in 2005, with current value growth of 5%. With the market poised for innovation, technology plays a leading role.

The recent launch of Roberto Cavalli’s Serpentine, which combines science and sensuality in a floral, amber and mango flower construction, is an example of melding molecules and myth, in fragrance. The mango flower, which according to Brazilian legend is said to entice the serpent until its taste induces a state of euphoria, is abetted by the tiare flower, mandarin, frangipani, amber and sandalwood, in Serpentine. Created by perfumer Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich, it drew on a special molecule technology for its amber note. Firmenich said, “The ambery note of Serpentine comes from Ambrox, a molecule of Firmenich scientific research, which is very powerful and performing. It is obtained by one of the main components of clary sage and therefore can also be defined as ‘vegetal amber.’ It is part of the latest generation of amber molecules created to substitute for natural grey amber, which has become rare and consequently is not available in sufficient quantity.”

Cooling Molecules

Molecules continue to make news with a development launched by International Flavors & Fragrances. A high-intensity cooling technology, called CoolTek™, using proprietary molecules developed through IFF’s research into human cold perception, has been used to enliven foods, beverages, gum, pharmaceutical and fragrance products. The cooling compounds also have helped generate new product lines such as breath films. In the fragrance area, new Curve Chill for Him and Curve Chill for Her, from Liz Claiborne, utilize the compounds.

Curve Chill for Her offers a burst of crystallized ginger, citrus and green tea, with peony and subtle woods. Curve Chill for Him is a fusion of citrus and bergamot, with green tea and cooling white pepper, vetiver and musk. The fragrances, which launched in March, are seen as summer fragrances, and are packaged in frosted white bottles.