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Unique Naturals by Design
By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: October 13, 2008, from the April 2006 issue of GCI Magazine.
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Researchers at Takasago’s Sensoral™ Center have been developing such innovations in sensory enhancements as heating, cooling and tingling. They discovered a series of contributing materials capable of modifying and amplifying skin surface response, and enhancing the value of odor properties by creating a multisensorial effect in fragrance products. These captive sensate™ materials are said to be derivative of the 2001 Nobel Prize winning asymmetric aroma chemical synthesis and are designed to evoke a variety of sensations. They initially were identified as materials that stimulate the trigeminal system (a pair of nerves that rise from the cerebellum and separate into three separate nerve divisions in the face, oral and nasal cavity) for use in flavor creation. Takasago expanded the technology to include fragrance application enhancement. The Center is working to build on this palette of materials and effects, and future sensory-invoking fragrance innovations.
David Garon, brand manager of Hush Fragrances, recently launched Hush Aroma-Pulse, an automated home fragrance system, consisting of a small, patented electronic device that attaches to an aerosol can and emits controlled delivery of fragrance throughout the day. The intensity, frequency, and timing of fragrance sprays such as Laundered Linen and Mediterranean Fig, may be adjusted. “The Aroma-Pulse system permits fragrancing the home without altering the fragrance by burning or passing it through a wick,” says Garon. Fragrance sprays take a different form with Valois’ Imagin, a form of mini-packaging that is very flat and emits a spray of fragrance. The technology is a result of collaboration between Valois and Estée Lauder Companies Inc., to create a single-use atomizer that can be inserted into magazines and provide consumers with a true representation of the fragrance. Valois provided the technology to the Lauder Cos. exclusively for one-year distribution in magazines. Imagin has a patented expandable design that can be presented flat for inserts, or for handing out at events, and has a large surface for advertising. Once the package is opened, air enters, allowing the consumer to squeeze the sample to emit a mist of fragrance directly onto the skin.
Arcade introduced Mini-LiquaTouch® for targeted, on-skin trial fragrance sampling. It seals the fragrance formula between two layers of specially fabricated materials that protect an applicator pad. When the layers are pulled apart, a sample of the fragrance is available for consumers to try. Virtually zero moisture loss and no product migration ensure formulation integrity. It can be inserted into magazines without incurring ride-along-rate surcharges and may be used as stand-alone or affixed to any substrate. A hermetic seal provides material and construction stability.
Technologies that improve the performance and portfolio of fragrance are not the only things developing in the industry. Research and technology centers are operating that will facilitate future advances. One recent example is drom’s Fine Fragrance Studio, a creative center in New York City’s Tribeca, designed to optimize interaction between all participants in the fragrance creation process. Drom eliminated traditional office structures, liberating perfumers from boundaries, and installed workstations at one central meeting point—the perfumer’s bar. The street-level fragrance studio features floor-to-ceiling windows that connect the working area with life outside, optimizing the interaction between the perfumers and the distinctive personality of the neighborhood. The perfumer’s bar, officially called the Central Interaction Module, is equipped with an integrated air ventilation system to purify air directly around the meeting area and to prevent contamination from the lab. Walls and doors of the lab are sealed hermetically, and an independent air circuit provides fresh air and removes contaminated air. The guiding principle of transparency is supported by the studio’s glass design, as well as proximity to the lab during creative working sessions with clients.
Givaudan introduced ODoR Analysis, designed to be a predictor of fragrance success in the marketplace. The technology was created in response to a degree of “olfactive sameness” in the industry, which was attributed in part to marketing research methods favoring consumer’s familiarity and, thus comfort levels with fragrance. In an effort to “reclaim olfactive territory” with new and edgier fragrances, the company built a model that would be more strongly related to in-market performance than traditional methods. Basically, ODoR analysis challenges conventional thinking by identifying a more accurate predictor of sustainable success and by challenging assumptions about signature and in-market performance. Givaudan developed measurements that define ODoR analysis: