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The Fragrance Horizon: 2009 and Beyond

By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor, Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
Posted: January 23, 2009, from the February 2009 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Mintel’s analysts, meanwhile, highlight the rise of so-called beauty foods. “Throughout 2008, food and drink we happily enjoyed as part of a healthy diet (i.e. superfruits and green tea) started to regularly appear in beauty products,” they note. “Next year, we will see food and beauty become even more intertwined. Mintel expects good-for-you food ingredients, such as probiotics, to increasingly show up in our cosmetics and skin care products. The familiarity of these ingredients will go a long way to convince consumers that these beauty products can enhance their appearance, just as they have enhanced their health. People will also choose more on-the-go formats such as supplements, snacks and drinks designed to help them look good and improve their beauty regimens.”

Economic Crisis and Fragrance Tastes

On the horizon, the drom team cites the rise of green notes in perfumery for men and women, in addition to the decline of “overly gourmand” fragrances that lack the feel of luxury. Instead, they say, scents will tend to be characterized by comforting and intoxicating elements such as aldehydes, spices and warm woods.

“If we follow the example of the 1929 depression (knowing it will not be the same this time),” says the team, “we went in the 1930s to darker fragrances, rich, deep and very dark (Vol de Nuit and Taboo are a few examples).” Perhaps, they note, the market again will move in this direction. “If you have money to buy only one perfume, you want it to be luxurious and rich, but also darker because your mood is darker. Also, there will probably be more parfums and extraits (in opposition to a simple eau de toilette) for the same reasons.”

Conversely, the team foresees the rise of hyper-luxury. This, they note, will include a “surenchère of rare and precious fragrances,” that feature premium raw materials and flacons. “This will be targeting some emerging areas such as the Russian, Indian, and Asian markets, as well as others.”