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Scent Sleuth: Holiday Fragrance Mania

By: Nancy C. Hayden
Posted: January 8, 2007

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We see twists off of the Floriental, a new category which is an imbalance off of the classic citrus vanilla amber and moss accord such as Obsession Night, Angel Garden of Stars Collection and Cartier’s Delices de Cartier.

One of the most successful mass market chypre launches was Lovely, by Sarah Jessica Parker, with a captivating woody floral twist. Clement Gavarry and Lauren LeGuernec of IFF collaborated to create this very feminine, modern interpretation of the classic chypre. Lovely has sharp, fresh clarity laced with floral woods and spices and rich mosses. It has great identity and staying power. Lovely has a fragrance memorability and its sales at the counter will confirm that this Christmas.

The fragrance goes with the Lovely concept, but melds into a long-lasting sultriness. A flanker fragrance followed in a new silk media for the skin that had an entirely different musky fragrance in it, called Lovely Liquid Satin. The addition of musk notes and a silky emollient gives these fragrances a new twist.

Martha Basanta, marketing director at drom fragrances, sees the rose note reinvented for a future direction—perhaps an edible gourmand twist on the rose as exhibited in Rose Angel by Thierry Mugler, a very spicy, woody rose. Basanta also sees the iced rose, the fruity rose and the violet twisted rose for new direction.

Fashion trends, media trends, perfume trends—our fast-paced society is always demanding the new. Have we spoiled our consumers? Who makes the trends? Is it the fashion goods house, the marketer, the small independent entrepreneur? Or is it the creative perfumer at the bench of the fragrance supply house coming up with a new shift in an accord or adding a new raw material. The answer is they all are interrelated. They all feed off one another.