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FiFi Awards: Breakthroughs in Fragrance Creation

By: Jeb Gleason-Allured
Posted: June 3, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

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How the extraction works: Source material is cut into pieces before being placed in the technology’s extraction tube, which enhances contact with the proprietary extraction gas. In a cold, low-pressure process, the gas liquefies, penetrates the source material and extracts odorant molecules. Pressure is released as the tube is emptied; the liquid gas evaporates, returning to its original state. Left behind is the molecular extraction, which is then analyzed by a perfumer in order to generate a formula that can be scaled up.

Extracts: The Jungle Essence technology can generate three categories of products. Pure Jungle Essence is an Ecocert-certifiable natural extraction of a natural product, sans solvent residue; Neo Jungle Essence is a co-extraction with an added solvent that produces extracts without “olfactive distortion,” thus offering “olfactive fidelity;” DNA Jungle Essence represents a reconstitution based on an analysis of a Pure Jungle Essence extraction. The “code” of the extract is broken down and reconstituted as accurately as possible and can be compared against the olfactive reference of the pure extract. The technology has yielded materials such as pink pepper Pure JE (sharp, spicy, softly woody), coconut Neo JE (fresh and fruity), feuilles de bigaradier DNA JE (floral, characteristic orange flow and light citrus) and green pepper Neo JE (fresh, green, spicy, crunchy and hot).

Aromacosmetics by Robertet

Robertet’s Aromacosmetics R&D program has utilized technologies such as a cell culture lab to examine more than 300 natural perfumery ingredients—essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, isolates, etc.—for application in skin care. The resulting extracts contain active molecules that serve as skin-activity ingredients in soothing, antiaging, purifying and slimming applications.

Activities: The program’s soothing solutions target skin inflammation by inhibiting the activity of the enzymes that induce and amplify the inflammatory process. Extracts such as wheat and myrrh extract have been applied in products such as Optimum Rejuvenate & Restore Day Cream, Innoxa Spa Body Therapy hydrating body mist and Avon Justine Skin Care: Balancing Line. Meanwhile, the company’s anti-photoaging materials, such as olive fruit extract, act as antioxidants, reducing damage caused by free radicals. Materials such as benzoin and rosemary extracts prevent the loosening of the extracellular matrix by protecting structural proteins and reducing wrinkles.