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The Rise of Anti-aging Hair Care

By: Naomi Serviss
Posted: July 10, 2013, from the July 2013 issue of GCI Magazine.

One of the latest trends in the global beauty industry is the proliferation of anti-aging hair products in the marketplace. Consequently, beauty product developers, ingredient suppliers, and brands large and small have been busy addressing the graying population in hopes of attracting the baby boomer marketplace.

With concerns over thinning, breakage, dryness and over-processing, consumers have been looking for the holy grail of hair restoration for years, and are finally getting some answers that won’t cost them the proverbial arm and a leg.

“The majority of women currently treating thinner hair are unsatisfied with their current regime and very interested in a natural alternative,” says Cindy Angerhofer, Aveda’s executive director of its Botanical Research Lab. “This significant gap in treatment inspired Aveda to enter the anti-thinning hair category to provide [consumers] with high-performing, botanically derived solutions, and capitalize on a considerable growth opportunity of the brand.”

Anti-aging hair concerns among consumers know no geographic boundary, she adds. “Forty-six percent of women globally are concerned with thinning hair, yet only a quarter of them act on it.”

Where the Market Is

The beauty market has shown strong growth in 2012, says Nicole Tyrimou, beauty and personal care analyst at Euromonitor International, improving upon its 2011 performance despite the deepening of the economic crisis in Europe and a slowdown in China’s economic growth.

“Consumers are now more willing to pay for convenience, with experience also becoming increasingly important in the value equation,” she wrote on the Euromonitor International website. And consumers’ desire to maintain healthy hair has steered ingredient suppliers and product developers toward creating a plethora of hair products for the over 40 age group.

Consumers want to look and feel as good as possible, as well as prolong the gap between salon visits, Tyrimou explains. “This has led to a growing consumer desire for products which can help them to nourish and care for their hair,” she says.

Angerhofer comments that Aveda’s anti-aging products are rooted in ayurveda, the 5,000-year-old healing tradition from India. Aveda’s plant- and flower-based Invati line, which is Sanskrit for invigorate, targets hair loss. “This system is comprised of 97% naturally derived [ingredients] that reduce hair loss,” she says. “Invati is powered by Densiplex, an invigorating complex of ayurvedic and traditional Chinese herbs, which help energize and rehabilitate the scalp around the follicles when massaged in.”

Building Stronger Hair

Another company that has addressed this market is Capsulent, which recently rolled out Kerabead, says Tycho Speaker, president of the company. “Kerabead describes our thin-film encapsulation technology, which wraps an ultra-thin layer of keratin(from natural wool) and alginate (from ocean plants) around droplets of active ingredients,” Speaker says. “The capsule wall integrates with damaged hair. As the product dries, the internal active ingredients (shea, argan oil, mango butter or silicone) are released, forming a protective layer that seals the patch.”

Capsulent developed its platform technology for numerous markets and industries, Speaker adds, and focus groups of varying ages helped them fine-tune the technology. “What really surprised us was the benefits we saw on mature hair,” he says. “As hair ages, there is a lot more accumulated damage. With regular use [of products with Kerabead], the hair became smoother. We saw older women able to grow their hair long again because they weren’t experiencing as much breakage.”

More mature consumers (40s and up) are typically faced with thinning hair, volume loss, graying, brittleness and dryness. Studies have shown that they still desire volume, shine and manageability and eschew products that weigh hair down.

What’s Available

The hair care market continues to be very competitive, with more than 10,000 products hitting the market in 2012. Generation Klean, launched in 2011 by JD Larson and Jasmine Abedi, competes by targeting the anti-aging hair care demographic with its aptly named Gray Disappear.

“As the baby boomer generation continues to age, they’ll need an easy solution to hair dyes,” says Abedi. Many hair dyes do not bind well to grays, she explains, and consumers are becoming more educated (and discriminating) about ingredients found in many products. As this awareness increases, consumers’ demand for products without certain ingredients will increase as well. “Generation Klean will be in a good position to fill this need with Gray Disappear and other products we’ll be launching,” Abedi says.

Another recently developed product, Revivogen Pro is a hair restoration line from Advanced Skin and Hair that was developed by dermatologist Alex Khadavi. “Revivogen Pro is part of our medical hair loss treatment,” says Jennifer Karp, director of sales and marketing for the company. The line was tested at salons, where they saw dramatic success. “The product treats hair to look thicker and fuller, and the line was expanded to include a scalp treatment, shampoo and conditioner,” Karp says. It also includes a volumizing hair mask that targets the over-30 market, and the entire collection is sold exclusively through Ulta.

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