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New Research in Natural Ingredients

By: Sherrie Berry
Posted: November 30, 2011, from the December 2011 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 3 of 4

(Myoxinol and Elestan LS 9913 are trade names of Cognis Corporation, Germany; Zirhafirm is a trade name of Centerchem, Inc., Norwalk, CT; EcoBidens, Bioskinup Contour 3R and Aquasense 3R are trade names of Chemyunion, São Paulo, Brazil. )

Anti-aging for eyes:

  • Bioskinup Contour 3Rc—This is an eight-part synergistic blend of Brazilian and European plants that provide triple action: anti-inflammatory, anti-edematous and venous protection.
  • This is a complete and scientifically based dermocosmetic active developed for delicate problem areas around the eyes.

Hydration:

  • 1,3-Propanediol—A corn-based humectant that may be superior to other synthetic humectants such as butylene glycol.
  • Adansonia digitata—This oil harvested from the dry valley of the Limpopo region in South Africa helps repair damaged skin, and offers instant and sustained relief from dry, damaged skin.
  • Aquasense 3Rc—This moisturizer helps prevent skin aging while increasing fibronectins, aquaporins and envelope proteins, increasing moisturization from inside out. Clinically tested for moisturizing and skin aging effects.

Skin lightening. This natural ingredient can help provide lightening results when included in skin care and cosmetic formulations.

  • Artocarpus incises—This heartwood extract of Thai breadfruit is a new skin-lightening active that may be better than kojic acid, a great substitute for hydroquinone.

Natural Preservation

What is left out of natural products is as important as what is included, and this is the crux of natural preservation challenges. Not getting into the paraben debate, preservative blends have been created using a wide range of aroma-inspired ingredients and have the added benefit of providing a little aroma to the formulation.

For example, phenethyl alcohol, or 2-phenylethanol, may sound like a synthetic chemical, but it’s actually an organic compound found in a variety of essential oils—including rose, carnation, hyacinth, aleppo pine, orange blossom, ylang-ylang and geranium.

It is used as a preservative because of its antimicrobial properties. There are also preservatives that add benefits such antioxidant properties. These include trehalose, or glyceryl caprylate, which is a preservative that acts as a humectant and improves the overall moisturizing capacity of the entire formula.

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