GCI Magazine

Segments Sponsored by

Email This Item!
Increase Text Size

Old Science Meets New Science

By: Shilpi Jain
Posted: August 28, 2012, from the September 2012 issue of GCI Magazine.

The trend toward green chemistry in beauty products has long been on the rise, and this isn’t a shift that happened overnight. It has been a gradual upward trend attributable to several factors, including a desire for sustainability, the potential health side effects of some current ingredients, and the demand for manufacturers to lower their environmental footprint.

Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, consumers are becoming savvier. They read the labels, and there is a constant rise in the research, especially in Europe and Asia, of plant-derived peptides, encapsulated actives for slower ingredient delivery, active plant stem cells, sophisticated extraction processes with clinical testing components and more.

In the past, with more disposable income, consumers were able to have 10 different products for different skin treatments—a cleanser, a toner, a day cream, a night cream, a mask, an eye cream, a sunscreen, a scrub and beyond. But, now with the downshifted economy, consumers are looking to spend smart. They are looking for so-called all-purpose products, and are willing to trade to a drug store brand or less expensive private label product rather than a prestige alternative. And on the opposite side of the spectrum, consumers with disposable income who are able to afford high-end products are now tending to look for products that are green, organic, plant-derived, cruelty-free and beyond—and these are only a few of the terms being used and marketed by the beauty industry today.

To capture this spend, treating the skin with plant-based ingredients alone is not enough. Treating skin holistically with a combination of high-tech ingredients, including stem cells and peptides or encapsulated molecules, and plant-based ingredients gives the products an extra boost while competing on the level of synthetic counterparts and meeting greener standards.

For example, Skinveda’s Cell Active Serum combines anti-aging, toning, tightening and detoxification all in one product through its blend of ingredients. The key anti-aging elements include active stem cell cultures of sequoia and Vitis vinifera combined with ayurvedic ingredients such as aromatic distillates of jasmine and an extract of tulsi along with iron oxides from the rock hematite. To reduce redness and sensitivity, the serum uses anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory agents such as oat beta glucans, Camellia sinensis leaf extract and allantoin, and the hydrating properties of aloe vera leaf juice help make this product a triple-action serum.

Cosmetic manufacturers, beauty brand owners and product developers are now creating cosmetics with the consumer distinctly in mind while also being conscious about the environment. It used to be that people were less well-informed and cared less about what was going into their creams and makeup products. But now, those same consumers are aware of their ingredients, and it has been a challenge for beauty brands to meet these new ingredient and product demands, reformulating and undertaking costly measures to replace their current products with more natural alternatives—as well as to replace potentially carcinogenic or harmful ingredients with plant-based ingredients that don’t change the feel, viscosity or color of the end result.

Natural Challenges

There are challenges in creating products with within the aforementioned parameters, of course. Product developers and formulators often face the challenge of finding a way to mimic the aesthetics of synthetic products/ingredients with naturals. Consumers want a certain color and feel for the product that is difficult to achieve with plant-derived ingredients.

For example, when they open a jar of cream, most consumers want it to be a pearlescent white. However, when extracts such as amla and turmeric are added to the formulation, the color cannot stay white. This can hurt the marketing of this type of product because consumers are so used to that white-colored cream that they equate that appearance with the product being a rich, high-end, “perfect” cream.