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Nutricosmetics: Eat and Drink Your Skin Care

By: Leslie Benson
Posted: September 5, 2008, from the September 2008 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 5 of 8

There are raw ingredients that pose challenges in formulating nutricosmetics and that can negatively affect finished products, so suppliers work diligently during the R&D process to stabilize nutrients for use in foods, beverages, dairy products and dietary supplements.

DSM, for example, offers water-soluble, fat-soluble and beadlet forms of antioxidants and vitamins, allowing for their direct compression. And to ensure consistent ingredient supply and quality, the Sabinsa Corporation utilizes a food applications lab to prepare and test botanical and nutritional ingredients for stability, acceptability and optimal formulation. “These efforts are particularly important, since color, taste or texture characteristics can often render a healthy and natural ingredient unattractive,” says Prakash.

A product’s sensory effect often directs consumer usage, so in order to overcome unappealing odors evident in raw ingredients such as fish oil, some suppliers produce omega-3 solutions that have no fishy taste or odor and no reflux after intake. “If it tastes good and is a natural part of their diet, many consumers regard functional foods as an interesting alternative,” say Cognis’ Krämer and Strube.

However, the same ingredients when used topically for skin care rather than ingested can have different esthetic properties. For instance, according to Djerassi, rosemary extracts have an odor when used topically, but when ingested in a supplemental form, it’s not an issue.

What is an issue, once taste and odor have been addressed, is an ingredient’s dosage. Lori Lathrop Stern, scientific leader, DSM Global Nutrition Science, says recent studies demonstrate how combining multiple ingredients at smaller dosage levels can achieve a similar benefit as a single ingredient. Then, a dose can also be split among multiple servings per day.

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