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Specialty Skin Care Makes Multiple Claims

By: Leslie Benson
Posted: January 9, 2009, from the January 2009 issue of GCI Magazine.

Antiaging may receive the most press coverage in the skin care market, but the specialty segment has fostered noteworthy and game-changing innovations.

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For MD Skincare’s Gross, daily exfoliation for skin cell renewal is one of the key components of battling acne. “Adding a little oomph to a daily regimen by using a microexfoliation product with alpha or beta hydroxy acids builds skin-firming collagen, especially when incorporated into a two-step chemical peel,” he says. “Although primarily an antiaging product, it’s extremely successful in fighting breakouts and acne.”

Throughout the past few decades, anti-acne products have also benefitted from smarter delivery systems and ingredients, expanding from simple formulas that primarily rely on benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid.

According to Klock of DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Branch Pentapharm, ingredients such as the company’s Stay-C50 are among these advancements. “Stay-C50, a stable vitamin C derivative, reduces the appearance of acne by directly inhibiting the growth of Propionibacterium acne and—being a free radical scavenger—it also reduces the oxidation of sebum,” says Klock.

Harmony Labs offers similar ingredients, including encapsulated offerings for controlled release, but its best sellers for acne care, according to its vice president of sales and marketing, remain benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid.

“These two ingredients are the gold standard for acne treatment,” Martin says, “because they work and work well.” Therefore, the company utilizes these ingredients as platforms for advanced formulas; its Fruit Enzyme Complex One, for example, is a specially formulated fruit complex that includes these acids for acne care.