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Targeting Delivery to Areas of Concern

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: April 3, 2007

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To improve skin tones and health, Tolchinsky noted that numerous actives tested in the laboratory as beneficial on skin often proved difficult to formulate in an emulsion based product. “Rather than eliminate an otherwise beneficial active from a formulation, consider a non-aqueous delivery system. Dissolvable films are anhydrous systems, which can be considered as a viable option for stabilizing actives that are traditionally unstable in aqueous systems,” Tolchinsky added. In addition, for a variety of facial and other skin concerns, “Dissolvable films have significant potential in applications that require targeted delivery of actives on select areas of skin, such as under the eyes, on lips, or even wrinkles. This delivery mechanism can also be very useful in cleansing and moisturizing applications.”

In taking a preventive approach to skin aging, whatever the cause may be, National Starch says formulators will need to look closely at concepts extending the effectiveness of actives beyond one or two hours. “Film former technology has the potential to be an enabling technology for longer lasting products. Formulators primarily use film former technology in beach wear sunscreen products, but select forms of polymeric based film formers can be considered in a wide range of skin care products to achieve formulation goals,” said Tolchinsky.

The signs of aging are no longer solely evident as fine lines and wrinkles, according to Croda. Skin dryness, loss of elasticity and texture, decrease in thickness, compromised barrier, and skin discolorations and imperfections are among the signs of aging skin. Products that can delay or correct these “other” visual clues are increasingly desired. “Renovage, recently launched by Sederma, was designed to correct all of these other signs of aging,” stated the company. It is said to have been clinically proven to improve skin tone and elasticity, reduce the appearance of dilated pores, strengthen the skin’s barrier function, reduce skin dryness and discoloration, including redness and sunspots, and diminish fine lines and wrinkles, while improving the overall evenness of skin texture. In addition, Arlatone Dioic DCA also can assist in the formulation of new products addressing those types of concerns, and is said to help provide the appearance of even skin tone, smoother texture and radiance. It is a plant-based ingredient that may be used in foundations, concealers, day and night creams, skin treatment systems and moisturizers.

Sederma also offers antiaging effects with its ingredient Venuceane, which was tested in a six-month study on the Island of Mauritius under accelerated aging conditions. Venuceane was said to save the skin from aging five years in six months. By evaluating the appearance of various signs of aging and utilizing the VISIA system with its age database, it was shown that the placebo group aged by approximately three years while the Venuceane treated group had an overall improvement, thereby reversing the age of the skin by approximately two years. The ingredient, which contains heat stable enzymes and inexhaustible enzymes, is derived from deep-sea bacteria and, according to the company, enables the protection of the essential structures of the skin from oxidative free radical degradation.

Botanical extracts are increasingly evident in formulations designed to help prevent and correct the signs of aging. The Phytotal line of botanical extracts is comprised of blends of botanicals, combined to provide clinically proven results. Two complexes are available in the area of antiaging–Phytotal AW for reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and Phytotal FM, which targets elasticity, tone and skin suppleness. Targeted delivery is key to performance. Arlasolve DMI-PC is designed to enhance delivery of actives, especially water-soluble actives, offering an improvement in actives delivery in the epidermis as high as 50%. According to Croda, “Arlasolve DMI-PC enables formulation of active products, not simply products that contain actives.”