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Targeting Delivery to Areas of Concern

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: April 3, 2007

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“Hydroregulative ingredients incorporated into cosmetic formulations provide the skin with moisture and help the skin to hold it,” said Peter Lersch, head of R&D, care ingredients/biotechnology, Degussa Personal Care. “TEGO Smooth Complex is a unique blend of low and high molecular weight components that reduce skin roughness by enhancing the removal of old squamae. The skin becomes smoother and appears more radiant.” Lersch cites TEGO’s water holding capability (supported by its polyglutamic acid polypeptide and trimethylglycine amino acid) and a low-molecular weight scleroglucan in its ability to soothe the skin, reduce inflammation and afford sun protection and repair.

Lersch cited independent efficacy studies confirming the ability of TEGO Derm CBS, a ready-to-use, oil soluble solution of phytosphingosine SLC (a patented derivative of naturally occurring phytosphingosine) to help minimize the signs of aging several ways, including “supporting epidermal cell differentiation, skin repair and skin renewal; improving the conditions of mature or photo-aged dermis by boosting collagen synthesis and reducing its degradation; reinforcing the dermal-epidermal junctions; and by soothing inflamed skin.”

DNA Repair Melds Genomics and Beauty
There is also a lot of buzz about the bio-engineered ingredients designed to encourage the repair of the skin’s DNA, said to be key to antiaging. The latest words are ultrasomes and photosomes, said to treat photo-aged skin by targeting the source of skin imbalance. In the December 2006 issue of Cosmetic Surgery Times David H. McDaniel, a Virginia-based dermatologist, suggests that the ability to individualize cosmeceuticals to a unique DNA and lifestyle is just around the corner. McDaniel was quoted as saying, “We need a radically different approach to protecting against premature aging. The best protection should include an effective SPF, a potent antioxidant with high EPF (environmental protection factor) and, for those with strong sun exposure, the new DNA repair enzymes (ultasomes and photosomes).”

Daniel Yarosh, PhD, a molecular biologist who specializes in gene repair, formed AGI Dermatics to study DNA repair, the impact of the sun on the immune system and cell-signaling in skin. One of the outcomes of the Human Genome Project, said Yarosh, was an improved ability to study the impact of UV rays on the skin’s DNA. The damage caused to the skin by UV rays may include photo-aging symptoms like wrinkles, uneven texture and dull tone. Previously, skin damage from the past was thought beyond repair without drastic measures, however, “The new message from the genomics revolution is that skin can indeed be repaired and re-programmed. The harmful effects of UV-induced damage are not irreversible,” said Yarosh.

AGI Dermatics developed and tested a range of ingredients in clinical studies. The ingredients are said to be the building blocks for regenerating DNA and sustaining skin health. One drug, dimericine, is a skin lotion awaiting FDA approval as a prescription to reduce incidence of pre-malignancies and skin cancer. AGI also launched a seven-product skin care line, Remergent, with a similar concept for skin repair. Available from medical professionals, it is said to target DNA repair, barrier building, pigmentary issues and other skin concerns. The Remergent DNA Repair Formula is a serum formulated to encourage the skin to self-correct.