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Multi-Innovation in Actives

By: Diane Bilodeau, Ph.D.
Posted: June 4, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

When the word “innovation” has become an industry buzzword, saying a new cosmetic active is a “multi-innovation” might sound a bit overstated. However, when it’s possible to demonstrate its originality, multimodality, complementarity and unsurpassed quality, skepticism turns into conviction.

Modern lifestyle including UV exposure and the use of certain cosmetics can affect sensitive skin causing redness, irritation, acne, sunburn and premature aging. A common underlying cause of these skin conditions is inflammation.

There are ingredient options that down regulate the expression of inflammation mediators, which effectively protect the skin against UV or chemical-induced irritation. Biopharmacopae Design International’s Sereniks-207, for example, is an original active sourced from northern cold climates that helps the skin fight against premature aging, minimizing the action of damaging collagen and elastin proteases while offering a strong antioxidant shield.

Calming the Skin

In recent years, the cosmetic industry has developed very potent actives to effectively fight the signs of skin aging, namely Retinol, but the acceptance of these actives is limited due to the burning and scaling often associated with use. There are, however, ways to mediate these side effects and create ingredient synergies. In a blind study, Sereniks-207 was tested in combination with Retinol to assess their potential synergy, and results showed a dramatic decrease in the Retinol-induced redness when the volunteers were treated with the combination Retinol-Sereniks-207, when compared to the use of a formulation containing Retinol alone.

Protecting the Skin Against Premature Aging

Sagging, thinning and wrinkling skin, associated with aging, are triggered by several molecular mechanisms of action including cumulative damages caused by oxidative stress, the activation of proteases (any enzyme that breaks down proteins) damaging collagen and elastic fibers, and the induction of pro-inflammatory cytokines (proteins that carry signals between cells).