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Multi-Innovation in Actives

By: Diane Bilodeau, Ph.D.
Posted: June 4, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Skin cells are embedded in a matrix of fibrous extra-cellular proteins that include collagen, elastin and other components, and this structure provides a support for cell growth, cell motility and nutriments transport. Aging and environmental stress exposure leads to the activation of collagen and elastin damaging proteases, which further trigger repairing commands at the cellular level. Consequently, leukocytes are mobilized, a phenomenon that can lead to inflammation.

Today, there are actives that can provide multiple benefits to skin aging formulations by precisely targeting these molecular mechanisms of action.

For example, the antioxidant potential of Canadian hemlock tree needles was evaluated using the Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) assay, which measures the oxidative degradation of a fluorescent molecule. Results revealed that the derived ingredient, Sereniks-207, advantageously compares to ECGC (a green tea active compound) and ascorbic acid, both already known for their antioxidant properties. In addition to down regulating the expression of inflammation messengers, this new active has also demonstrated the ability to inhibit the activity of major proteases involved in skin aging and photo aging.

Diane Bilodeau, Ph.D., is scientific advisor with more than 20 years experience in the cosmetic and nutrition industry. Biopharmacopae Design International Inc. (BDI) is a Canadian biotech company that seeks to take efficacy to the next level.