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SPF, Efficacy and Innovation

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: August 28, 2008, from the February 2007 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 8 of 9

According to the company, ASP Technology originally was developed to meet the needs of Asian customers who tend to gravitate toward skin care products that address hyperpigmentation, including dark spots. Researchers found that the ingredient melanase, found in ASP Technology, might have broader applications, and began looking at utilizing it in different skin care regimens. They found, says the company, that the technology helps minimize the appearance of dark spots and maximize the potential for a more even tan. When exposed to the sun, the skin’s natural defense mechanisms are activated and melanin is produced. Although melanin is necessary to protect the skin against excessive exposure to UVA and UVB, accelerated melanin production can lead to hyperpigmentation. ASP Technology acts as a UV-activated photosome, and actually helps break up the appearance of dark spots.

Using the same technology, Estée Lauder has launched Multi-Protection Sun Towelettes for Body SPF 15, which will be on counter in March 2007. Each individually packaged towelette is made from a soft non-woven fabric that absorbs and uniformly releases the lightweight SPF 15 formula onto the skin. It contains a water-resistant formula, plus glycerin and pantethine to guard against moisture loss, and antioxidant vitamins C and E to provide protection against the formation of future spots.

Clinique also has added to its Sun Care and Daily Sun Protection lines. Products that range from under-makeup use and lightweight daily protection to a high SPF moisturizing protection are among the latest. Clinique’s Super city Block Oil Free Daily Face Protector SPF 40 for women who want daily protection with a high SPF that provides a lightweight texture is one of the newest. A combination of titanium dioxide and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, provide broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection.

Secrets from the Sea

While botanicals and vitamins are solidly positioned in the protection pantheon, there is a new crop of marine-based ingredients appearing in the market. Clinique’s Sun Care UV Response Face SPF 30 Sunscreen was developed to help protect facial skin from UV rays when sun exposure is intentional. The formula is said to address two types of sun damage—direct damage to skin cells and indirect damage from free radicals that are said to have a domino effect on the skin.

Plankton extract liposomes, according to the company, will provide repair technology to help address sun damage as it occurs, and photozomes will provide a second hit of time released antioxidant protection as the sun intensifies. Clinique scientists say that because plankton is exposed to extreme light during its lifespan, it has developed a natural resistance mechanism that allows it to use energy from sunlight to help repair damage. Clinique utilizes the ingredient in a liposome delivery system, so after just limited exposure to the sun, the sun-activated liposomes release the ingredient to help skin repair itself from direct sun damage as it occurs.