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By: Jeff Falk
Posted: February 8, 2007
page 2 of 4“By developing products that not only protect from the sun but have creamy, non-sticky formulations (that) enhance skin softness and appearance, consumers are encouraged to use sun care products,” said van der Meij. “Due to the nature of sun care, it is important that products are easy to apply and comfortable to wear. The feeling of the product on the skin and the evenness of application are crucial to its marketability, especially in today’s competitive sun care market.”
“Our customers, the formulators of sun care products, have challenged ingredient suppliers to help them deliver both high SPF and sensory aesthetics, including irritation reduction,” said Mary Clarke, director of sales development, Croda.
“Cosmetic chemists have to develop sunscreen formulations with a very limited number of approved sunscreens,” said Ratan Chaudhuri, technical advisor, EMD Chemicals, Inc.; president, Sytheon Ltd. “Sunscreens are now included in a wide variety of skin care/protection products such as day care, self-tanning, insect-repellent products. Lotions and creams are the most desired and elegant forms of delivery. Gels, sticks, mousses, aerosol have remained as niche delivery systems due to the difficulty in preparation and lack of aesthetics.”
According to Chaudhuri, Avobenzone was approved for use in the U.S. market approximately 10 years ago, and it was followed by micronized TiO2 and ZnO (approved in the U.S. in 1998). These three sunscreens provided formulators with more flexibility in developing true broad spectrum sunscreens, and developments in photostabilization of UV filters have changed sunscreen formulations—allowing sunscreen to go from just delivering broad-spectrum SPF protection to photostable broad-spectrum protection.
RTDHallStar has developed several technologies and additives that improve the delivery of broad-spectrum protection by improving sunscreen photostability—including HallBrite BHB, HallBrite TQ, the Spectrasolv line and Polycrylene—and it is of interest to note that even as he lists the sun protection attributes of these ingredients, Bonda points out that HallBrite BHB also has been shown to improve sunscreen aesthetics. Aesthetics, in addition to actives, are important enough to consider at the ingredient level, and ingredient suppliers actively work to provide both. Lipo Chemicals’ products for the market, for example, include: Lipo CD-OMC, a sunscreen active agent; Lipo Padimate O, a sunscreen active; Gorgonian Extracts GC, PTG, anti-inflammatory agents; and Panalane H-300E, a waterproofing agent.