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SPF, Efficacy and Innovation

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: February 20, 2007

page 8 of 10

The naturally derived emulsifier system is said to enable formulators to develop fluid, light emulsions that can be applied as a spray or coated onto a wipe. Arlatone V-150 emulsifier system, according to the company, provides flexibility in the choice of emollients and organic sunscreen actives and, unlike most traditional emulsifiers, has no impact on the sensorial properties of the finished emulsion.

Products and Protection

Finished products currently on the market provide numerous options for customers. Estée Lauder offers a response to the sun care conundrum with its Sun Performance SunCare Collection.

“Sun protection technology has come a very long way,” says Daniel Maes, vice president global research and development, Estée Lauder. “No longer are we solely reliant on sunscreens to protect our skin against harmful UVA and UVB. Significant advances in skin care research have revealed that, with the right balance of SPF and antioxidants as well as a new technology that we have developed, we can create sunscreens that protect skin from the sun’s rays and combat the appearance of dark spots at the same time.”

The water-resistant range of products provides broad-spectrum protection against the sun, and features ASP Technology (Anti-spot Protection). The collection includes Multi-Protection Sun Lotion for Face SPF 30; Multi-Protection Sun Lotion for Body SPF 30; and Multi-Protection Sun Spray (Oil-free) SPF 15.

According to the company, ASP Technology originally was developed to meet the needs of Asian customers who tend to gravitate toward skin care products that address hyperpigmentation, including dark spots. Researchers found that the ingredient melanase, found in ASP Technology, might have broader applications, and began looking at utilizing it in different skin care regimens. They found, says the company, that the technology helps minimize the appearance of dark spots and maximize the potential for a more even tan. When exposed to the sun, the skin’s natural defense mechanisms are activated and melanin is produced. Although melanin is necessary to protect the skin against excessive exposure to UVA and UVB, accelerated melanin production can lead to hyperpigmentation. ASP Technology acts as a UV-activated photosome, and actually helps break up the appearance of dark spots.