Most Popular in:
Sun Care in the 21st Century
By: Jeff Falk
Posted: December 9, 2009, from the December 2009 issue of GCI Magazine.
page 5 of 6Hewitt: With regard to photostability, testing substrate effects, etc., the key requirement for any established or new entrants in the sun care market is to ensure that they are familiar with the test protocols in the market(s) they intend to sell in, and what requirements these protocols impose on the product itself. Photostability, for example, is now an inherent requirement for almost all current or proposed UVA test methods, so the formulator must have an appreciation of how to optimize this in the formulation. The brand owner doesn’t necessarily need to know the technical details, but is responsible for ensuring that the proper tests are done and that products are labeled correctly.
GCI: At the Sunscreen Symposium, Dow Personal Care’s Chuck Jones presented on optimizing the efficiency of inorganic sunscreens. According to him, a conundrum exists between formulating to achieve a high SPF and maintaining good aesthetics. How does Dow address the growing need for higher SPF and the parallel demand for high-level aesthetics?
Sutton: Dow is addressing the growing need for products that provide higher SPF ratings while also having good aesthetic properties by exploring new combinations [of dispersions and boosters]. Inorganic UV filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide tend to be less sticky, tacky, greasy, and can be used at higher usage levels than organic UV filters, so we are focusing the majority of our research on these.
As an inorganic UV filter booster, Dow Personal Care’s SolTerra Boost, for example, is naturally derived from cellulose, and can double the SPF rating of products by evenly distributing the active ingredients on the skin. It does not negatively affect the viscosity or aesthetics of formulations, which makes it an excellent choice for sun care products using zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. SPF boosters [in Dow’s offerings] can be used in a variety of product forms—such as creams, lotions, sticks and sprays to enhance the sun protection factor of outdoor/beach wear, daily wear and color cosmetic products.
GCI: At the 2009 Sunscreen Symposium, it was noted that “the behavior of sunscreen products is not predictable from its individual ingredients.” What are the implications of this for marketers? Does this translate to lots of trial and error on formulas as new ingredients become available?