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A Place in the Sun

By: Sara Mason
Posted: June 7, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

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As a result of such rising consumer expectations, innovation has been boosted worldwide, while manufacturers develop new products with added value. But in the end, it still comes down to education, as consumers need to learn proper use and reapplication for the optimal benefit, prompting new ideas for more convenient or unique formats.

Boosting SPF

Suppliers are putting time and energy into research and development to provide concepts dedicated to a wide range of cosmetic applications, offering high-tech solutions to ensure optimal skin protection against UVB- and UVA-induced damage.

Last fall, ISP Personal Care announced the addition of a new sun care UV filter to its portfolio that has been designed to provide broad-spectrum protection against damaged caused by exposure to the sun. Available to brand owners outside the U.S., Escalol S offers protection in both the UVA and UVB ranges of the light spectrum in a single ingredient. “It also can boost the performance and the stability of other commonly used UV filters, creating synergies that offer higher SPF ratings for UVB radiation and photostability of UV filters that result in longer-lasting UVA protection,” said Anna Gripp, marketing manager, sun care, ISP. Should the ingredient be approved by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA), ISP has plans to market Escalol S in the U.S.

According to Gripp, the technology represented in Escalol S responds to a consumer market that is increasingly concerned with the consequences of prolonged exposure to the sun, in an ingredient that meets the formulating and sensory requirements of the beauty industry. “More than ever, consumers and regulatory agencies are focused on the potential damage of UVA radiation to skin and to overall health,” she said. The major trend in sun protection is toward broad-spectrum protection—from both UVA and UVB radiation. Escalol S is a technology the company claims can form the keystone of the UV filter package in sunscreen products.

In order to comply with the new regulations for sunscreens in Europe that require a 1:3 ratio of UVA to UVB protection, natural-positioned brand owner Lavera has reformulated its existing products by introducing zinc oxide. The change is a challenge for brand owners of natural-positioned sunscreen products, and have caused many European brands to pull products off shelves. But with the sales and prominence of natural beauty products growing, brands such as Lavera remain committed to providing a formulation that meets these new European standards. “Knowing that consumers can trust our brand to both protect them from the sun’s harmful rays [and] harmful ingredients is priceless to us,” said Ulrike Jacob, CEO.