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A Place in the Sun

By: Sara Mason
Posted: June 7, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

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“Silicone elastomers are increasingly used to impart distinctive textures and sensory effects, but incompatibility with organics has posed a formulating challenge,” said Michael Starch, industry scientist, Dow Corning Beauty Care. New silicone organic elastomer blends from Dow Corning claim to be more compatible with organic materials and actives than traditional silicone elastomer gels, without compromising the characteristic textures and sensory performance.

“The silicone organic elastomer blends offer formulation flexibility with organics and lipophilic active ingredients, including vitamins and sunscreens,” said Starch. “They can be used to create clear systems with organic components, and they enhance the aesthetics of [various] formulations.”

Beyond Broad-spectrum

Going beyond what consumers even realize they need is what will make brands stand out. Products with added benefits that protect and prepare the skin by its daily use to withstand the next exposure will make skin more resilient to solar radiation. “The goal is to gradually position skin to a healthier state, allowing it to tolerate insult from the environment,” explained Nicholas Pokoluk, co-founder, Wellness Formulations, LLC.

“The need to protect skin from UV-irradiation is well understood, and the use of UVB and UVA filters largely provides such protection,” said Cognis’ Pratt. “However, even if UV filters are used and there is no visible damage to the skin, subchronic UV exposure can lead to damage on a cellular level, which can affect the immune system of the skin and lead to premature aging.” To counter this, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques has elaborated the concept of cyto-photo-immuno-protection. The result was the development of the supplier’s active ingredient Photonyl, a complex of naturally occurring cyto-chromophores able to absorb the energy of photons and thus prevent sun damage. It provides protection of Langerhans cells, which play an important role in the skin’s immune system against UV-induced alteration.

Induchem, too, is furthering its sun protection platform by launching ingredients to sustain skin immunity against UV aggression, such as stimulating proteins involved in skin barrier and wound healing and by protecting Langerhans cells, the immunity sentinels, according to Giorgio Dell’Acqua, director of R&D, Induchem.