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A Place in the Sun

By: Sara Mason
Posted: June 7, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Induchem has already developed novel sun protection in the form of Unirepair to boost the natural repair of UV-damaged DNA and Uniprotect to sustain oxidation repair. “High SPF products are not sufficient to completely protect from UV-induced oxidation,” said Dell’Acqua. Uniprotect is used to increase the spectrum of protection, protecting skin from UV-induced protein oxidation by boosting enzymatic and nonenzymatic repairing systems. It is able to stimulate enzymes responsible for repair, and demonstrates the necessity of associating to UV filter skin boosting defense ingredients to achieve a better skin protection. Uniprotect’s protective effect is related to its stimulation of the enzymatic repair system rather than blocking UV rays. The ingredient could be used in conjunction with UV filters in a sun care product to give a more complete protective effect, according to the company.

Dermal Renu’s daily wear sunscreen Sunshield is a complement to the brand’s Anti-Aging Skin Care System, introduced earlier in 2010. The mineral-based sunscreen provides broad-spectrum protection from sun damage caused by UVA and UVB rays while fighting the signs of aging through a unique combination of ingredients.

The goal was to protect against total solar radiation—UV as well as infrared, while also addressing what happens to the skin after exposure. “In the not too distant future, infrared will be an integral part of how good scientific-based companies will address solar radiation,” offered Nick Pokoluk, the brand’s developer. “This is where sun care is heading and the problems researchers should be addressing are in this area.”

UV radiation protectants in Sunshield beyond the actives include red algae extract, which has been shown to have UVA-absorbing properties; caffeine, an immunosuppressant inhibitor shown to increase the rate of epitasis of damaged keratinocytes and reducing squamous cell skin cancer development; milk thistle extract, a UV immune suppressing inhibitor; green tea extract, which has been found to inhibit melanoma formation as well as having antiglycation benefits; and niacinamide, which protects against UV radiation-inflicted damage.

Antiglycation is central to the unique formulation. “Glycated proteins sensitize the skin to UV radiation,” explained Pokoluk. “The more there are, the more a given dose of solar radiation will do harm.” Sunshield’s antiglycation agents—Pueraria mirifica extract and carnosine—help slow down the glycation process (in which a sugar molecule bonds to a protein or lipid molecule without the controlling action of an enzyme, disrupting normal metabolic pathways), which is intensified by exposure to the sun. The ingredients also support healthy protein structure and function, as well as promote natural collagen and elastin production in the skin.